Gunkiemike wrote:
That's not such good advice. In the absence of ice, most Catskills routes can't be well protected (the rock is chossy). The recognized mixed routes usually have a few key bolts. There are a few new things being done in Stoney Clove that go entirely on modern gear (check the photos at NEice.com), but I don't know that they're appropriate for beginners. I'm seeing a lot of M4 and M5 ratings and that's often compared to 5.10ish. Is that "easy"? But not to worry, the ice has come back with a vengeance.