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Catskills mixed routes?
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Jan 31, 2013
Methinks that the ice in the catskills will be mostly shot after this warm spell, but I really want to climb. I've never climbed a pure mixed route before but want to give it a shot; anyone have suggestions for good easy mixed stuff in the catskills? Goldsmith
From Ithaca, New York
Joined Jun 14, 2009
0 points
Feb 1, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
just climb any route that would been mixed...uits the same route now without the ice. just more drytooling.

its going to be pretty wet though.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Feb 4, 2013
superkick wrote:
just climb any route that would been mixed...uits the same route now without the ice. just more drytooling. its going to be pretty wet though.


That's not such good advice. In the absence of ice, most Catskills routes can't be well protected (the rock is chossy). The recognized mixed routes usually have a few key bolts. There are a few new things being done in Stoney Clove that go entirely on modern gear (check the photos at NEice.com), but I don't know that they're appropriate for beginners. I'm seeing a lot of M4 and M5 ratings and that's often compared to 5.10ish. Is that "easy"?

But not to worry, the ice has come back with a vengeance.
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,716 points
Feb 5, 2013
Rumney
Gunkiemike wrote:
That's not such good advice. In the absence of ice, most Catskills routes can't be well protected (the rock is chossy). The recognized mixed routes usually have a few key bolts. There are a few new things being done in Stoney Clove that go entirely on modern gear (check the photos at NEice.com), but I don't know that they're appropriate for beginners. I'm seeing a lot of M4 and M5 ratings and that's often compared to 5.10ish. Is that "easy"? But not to worry, the ice has come back with a vengeance.


5.10 is the new 5.4+
Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Joined Jul 10, 2010
1,497 points
Feb 5, 2013
I climb M5, and I sure as hell don't climb 5.10 (at least not at the Gunks or Daks). Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
46 points
Feb 5, 2013
At the matching crux
I get similarly pumped leading bolted M7 as I do leading 5.10 gunks routes on gear. Jon H
From Boulder
Joined Nov 24, 2009
98 points


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