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Catskills mixed routes?
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By Goldsmith
From Ithaca, New York
Jan 31, 2013

Methinks that the ice in the catskills will be mostly shot after this warm spell, but I really want to climb. I've never climbed a pure mixed route before but want to give it a shot; anyone have suggestions for good easy mixed stuff in the catskills?


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Feb 1, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

just climb any route that would been mixed...uits the same route now without the ice. just more drytooling.

its going to be pretty wet though.


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By Gunkiemike
Feb 4, 2013

superkick wrote:
just climb any route that would been mixed...uits the same route now without the ice. just more drytooling. its going to be pretty wet though.


That's not such good advice. In the absence of ice, most Catskills routes can't be well protected (the rock is chossy). The recognized mixed routes usually have a few key bolts. There are a few new things being done in Stoney Clove that go entirely on modern gear (check the photos at NEice.com), but I don't know that they're appropriate for beginners. I'm seeing a lot of M4 and M5 ratings and that's often compared to 5.10ish. Is that "easy"?

But not to worry, the ice has come back with a vengeance.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Feb 5, 2013
Rumney

Gunkiemike wrote:
That's not such good advice. In the absence of ice, most Catskills routes can't be well protected (the rock is chossy). The recognized mixed routes usually have a few key bolts. There are a few new things being done in Stoney Clove that go entirely on modern gear (check the photos at NEice.com), but I don't know that they're appropriate for beginners. I'm seeing a lot of M4 and M5 ratings and that's often compared to 5.10ish. Is that "easy"? But not to worry, the ice has come back with a vengeance.


5.10 is the new 5.4+


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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Feb 5, 2013

I climb M5, and I sure as hell don't climb 5.10 (at least not at the Gunks or Daks).


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By Jon H
From Northern NJ
Feb 5, 2013
At the matching crux

I get similarly pumped leading bolted M7 as I do leading 5.10 gunks routes on gear.


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