||Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Bob Archebold, Circa 1980.|
|Season: ||A.M shade in spring, summer and fall.|
|Page Views: ||741|
|Submitted By: ||BBQ on Jul 2, 2012|
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Pitch 1: Start in a crack directly across the gully from the Kamps Route on the south face of Kyyamme Spire which is up the hill from the bolted Scary Larry climb on Rubiayiat Spire.
This pitch has excellent hand james, finger crack and an enormous layback flake which terminates into a small finger crack before flaring out to jugs to a bolted belay anchor. Climbers who follow as a second or third can chill out in a nice, shady anclove.
Pitch 2: Start in the enclove and make your way up an easy scramble to a large belay ledge. There is really very little protectable surface area here and no way to make an anchor at the end of this 5th class scramble. Climbers should be competent at soloing. There is no exposure on this pitch, but if a solo on Moonlight Rib makes you queazy it might just be best to turn back and repel from the first set of anchors.
Pitch 3: Belay from the ledge just outside of the cavey alcove structure. Take the first lowest angle slab on this ledge and head right. A large flaring crack takes a fist sized cam and a bit of a runout on small chicken heads leads to a finger crack. This finger crack has killer holds and takes bomber gear. Use small C3's and small nuts. There is a rusty, old bolt on this pitch that should be backed up with very small cams and micro-stoppers. The finger crack leads to a small roof with finger stacks to jugs. Summit by sticking to the small holds on a nearly vertical slab and belay at the slings.
Standard Rack. Double up on small gear. Bring extra cordellets for the summit just in case.
By Tater Tot
From: Custer, SD
Jul 20, 2012
This climb is actually on Sputnik. I did it today! Excellent.
Jul 16, 2015
A great route that should be done in its entirety! Micro gear keeps P3 reasonable.
At the end of P1, I built a comfortable anchor on the huge, flat ledge rather than suffer a hanging belay at the rap anchors. From P1 ledge, getting to the base of P3 is super low-angle 4th class with zero exposure. The only way this would make you queasy is if you get scared hiking up the Spires trail.
P1: 5.9+, 150' ****
P2: 4th, ~40?
P3: 5.9+, 120' ***