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A great route well worth a walk after topping out on any of the Walt's Wall or Fall Wall routes. After locating the crag gawking at Lucille, look to the right for this classic line. Ascend the stemmy corner to the first large ledge. One could separate the climb into 2 pitches after this first 30' of the lead. Step a few feet right and surmount the initial difficulties of entering the crack -- seemingly the Vedauwoo theme. If you fall out, you have a king sized ledge to plop back onto. Once established cruise the fun, continous handcrack to the anchor.
A standard rack including a good selection of hand size cams suffices. Rappel anchors are on the shelf above the crack.
Working the boulder problem
Seth Friedly at first belay
Me getting started in the bouldery crux section. ...
|By Aaron Shupp|
Feb 4, 2002
It's pretty rough getting into the crack for the second pitch. The feet are really awkward. However, one good pull should get you to much easier ground.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2004
I placed a #3.5 Camalot in the bottom stem slot, other than that nothing bigger than hand pieces is needed. The start of the second half is well described as a 5.9 boulder problem, takes some thought.