The climb shares the first two pitches (5.6, 5.4) with Regular Route. P3: Then instead going right on the Main Ledge, continue straight up a shallow corner, pass some pins (5.9), pass a bulge (10d) to a baley before right facing corner. P4. Climb straight up the corner to a roof, traverse under the roof, and over to a stance (11a), then a bit higher to a good stance (5.8). P5: a 5.9 pitch leads to the top. There is also a 10a variation if you break left at the very top. Enjoy the view of the va...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Sep 20, 2009
Opposite the west branch of El Capitan Drive there's a trail which heads into the woods, over some fallen trees, to hit the big trail running parallel to Cathedral Rocks, go left here then immediately right up a fainter trail, this will take you nicely up The Spires Gully. Cairns mark the way higher up in the talus.
If you're parked in the Cathedral Rocks pullout; take the trail from the pullout, this hits the big trail running parallel to Cathedral Rocks, go left here then after a short hike pass a left branch (the one mentioned above) and go right up the same fainter trail mentioned above.
The approach description for Upper and Lower Spires is kinda confusing. In case it's not clear, Lower Cathedral Spire is approached by going left around the spires and Upper Cathedral Spire is approached by going right and up the "Spires Gully", which is the same approach for Braille Book and Upper Cathedral Rock.