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Catharsis vs. Standard at Whitehorse
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By Mike McLean
Sep 3, 2010

Hi all,

I posted this over at NEClimbs, but it didn't yield much info.

I'm heading out to do Catharsis next week (Poke-O-Moonshine) and am trying to load up on beta.

Mostly, I'm wondering how it compares to Standard Route at Whitehorse. I had no trouble with Standard (well ... the zoro pitch threw me off with all it's rope drag ...). Since I'm bringing up a couple buddies, I want to be sure I'm well within my limits (and theirs).

Thanks for any info (belays, runouts, ...)

Mike.


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By Mark Wilson
From San Francisco, CA
Sep 3, 2010

I have been on that route. Never climbed at Whitehorse but by the sounds of it it is not a hard climb. I will be up that way later this month. Can't wait to get on Wounded Knee and Sunburst Arete!!


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By Gunkiemike
Sep 4, 2010

If you did Standard, you can do Catharsis.


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By Rob Alexander
From Alta
Sep 4, 2010
on rappel

Then go do empress at chapel pond


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By doligo
Sep 8, 2010
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

Never done Catharsis, but climbed Chapel Pond slabs and Whitehorse Slabs. For comparison, Adirondack anthrosite does not feel as secure as featured clean granite, IMO. It is pretty sticky, but the mossy growth that also adds texture to the rock makes it feel insecure, YMMV...


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By Mike McLean
Sep 8, 2010

Thanks for the info all. I'll post up the tr once I get back.


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By Mike McLean
Sep 12, 2010

Me again; I just got back from Catharsis yesterday. I updated the Poke-O-Moonshine page with a new Poke-O Slab area

The description I made for the area is not very ... well, descriptive ..., but I did put in a lot of info for Catharsis.

For anyone looking for any extra info about the climb, I also whipped up a quick TR

Thanks again all.

(btw: I found it be an awesome climb - especially P4. Will repeat for sure)


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By Tparis
From Pottersville,New York
Sep 12, 2010
fall foliage 5.7+ slab

nice Mike, I like the name for your blog. Good TR.


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By Mike McLean
Oct 3, 2010

Rob Alexander wrote:
Then go do empress at chapel pond


Again; me.

I did Chapel Pond today (Regular Route). I found it to be much easier than Catharsis (even though they're both rated the same at 5.5 PG).

Next time, I will most definitely do Empress. The X in the rating had me chicken out, but I pretty much ran out X on all pitches of Regular (rock is really clean).

I whipped up a quick tr here:
mikemclean.ca/ocd/2010/10/03/chapel-pond-slab-regular-route->>>

Strong of this, I'll probably be heading out to do Lakeview next week.


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By Mike McLean
Oct 11, 2010

Last time, I promise :)

I did Lakeview at Cannon Cliff yesterday and posted a TR for anyone looking for extra beta (like I'm always doing when preparing for a big climb)

mikemclean.ca/ocd/2010/10/11/slabtastic-weekend-in-new-hamps>>>

Cheers.


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