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10 - The Cookie Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Aftershock T,TR 
America's Cup T 
Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
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Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
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Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade aka The Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
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Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 
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Catchy 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Believed to be Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen, 1967 FFA: Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell and Mark Klemens, 10/1971
Page Views: 4,649
Submitted By: Todd Grier on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (110)
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Me, leading this, years ago

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Great to top-rope if you have rope gun to set it up. Great to work on the 10+ level on thin hands.

Location 

Belay on the large slab.

Protection 

up to 2"


Photos of Catchy Slideshow Add Photo
Better belay spot above the ledge
Better belay spot above the ledge
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A little higher ...

Comments on Catchy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 27, 2015
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 8, 2007

Nice crack, mostly thin hands with an occasional hand jam and a long crux move off a fingerlock to a jug. Plenty of rests and good footholds allow you to remain fresh for the crux that shows up just before the top.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jun 6, 2007

To the author: I don't think the thin hands part is .10+.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 6, 2007

In my humble opinion, the thin hands stuff was .10a-ish? Crux for me was the short fingers section, which I found much more difficult than the guidebook crux.
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2007

Heads-up! The hold in the crux which your right hand latches after the reach is way loose...The move will probably be easier when it pulls out!
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 6, 2010

Bring doubles of the 1.5 - 2.5 friends. Save a small piece for the crux move at the top.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010

got spit off the crux which is tricky, even at 6'4". Keep your feet below you, don't be tempted to leverage your foot off the ledge off to the left side, it will screw up your balance. Use the pods and the sloping ledge for your feet.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

In the Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed subdividing the Yosemite Decimal System with letter grades. In his examples for 5.10d thin cracks he listed Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five & Dime, Leaning Meany, and Independence Pinnacle, Center route, p3.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Mar 3, 2011

I know this climb gets done a dozen times a weekend but the final "jug" that you make the big move to is flexing (I climbed it two weeks ago). It seems to be a flake and moves almost an inch. FYI!
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Mar 4, 2011

I've done this route only once... but I'm not sure where this flexing jug is at the top. I made the big move, reached up, and just dropped a handjam in the slot at the top. Seemed the obvious way to do it, and I didn't notice any looseness or flexing that way.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 31, 2011

Flexing jug now gone.
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012

FA: Believed to be Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen, 1967
FFA: Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens, 10/1971
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 2, 2012

Nope, it's still there and may be there for a long time to come. Or it might get pulled off by the next party, who knows? I think an inch is a bit of an exageration though.

Another awesome pitch!
By SirTobyThe3rd
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Heard that jug/flake is gone now. But supposedly did not make the climbing harder.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2013

climbed this back in early June and was sitting on the block just below the anchors bringing my second up to go do catchy corner. When my partner got up, he yarded on the block and pulled himself up onto it and the thing flexed quite a bit. I'm not sure if this is the 'flexing jug' people have been referring to, but this is a microwave sized block and it's definitely moving ALOT.
By ebanich
Oct 18, 2014

Bring 3 camalots of sizes .5 and .75 if you want to protect well and have enough gear. I watched a girl back clean 3 times on one go. Save 2 of each for after the big ledge at ~40 feet.
By dnaiscool
Apr 3, 2015

I spent a couple weeks in The Valley in the fall of '79 after a summer of rowing boats down the Middle Fork. I'd hitchhiked, so lacked wheels to get down to the Cookie. My rack was stoppers, hexes and one Friend. Poking around Camp IV, I found a partner who was gung-ho for some harder cracks, so ,car-less, we hitched together; and our ride was with a couple of guys sharing our destination. When they heard we were going to do Catchy, immediately they asked, "Got any Friends?" And my response in the affirmative with a single #2 was met with, "Cool, save it for the crux." We did Beverly's Tower to Wheat Thin, rapped feeling strong and headed over to Catchy. That pro advice rang true for our onr camming unit, and that climb kicked my ass: landing the perfect, cupper hand jam at the top was like getting a big breath of air after getting window shaded in a keeper hole. I did not fall, so I guess my brand new EBs were doing their magic. We'd planned on carrying on with Catchy Corner above, but that ass whippin' sent us both back to camp. The climb proved much easier, and less strenuous, when I returned a couple of years later with 4 SLCDs.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Apr 27, 2015

WARNING: Ledge at top is dangerously loose as of 4/27/2015. Did this for the second time this year. Didn't notice anything either time I climbed it, but the second time, after rapping from Catchy Corner to the top of Catchy, I waited at the top of the Catchy anchors while my partner rapped....and the ledge you stand on MOVES. It was literally shaking back and forth about an inch as my partner rappelled, caused by the force of the weighted rope leveraging over the lip. The block is about triangular, 4-ft by 4-ft and you can see a hairline crack that separates it from the rest of the rock.

The dangerous part is most folks won't notice it unless you're a big guy who yards really hard on it after the crux. It probably shakes unnoticed by all top-roppers and rappers. It will come off someday. Possibly soon. IT IS NOT GONE as some others have said.
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