| The Cookie Cliff |
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Catchy 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell & Mark Klemens 10/71 |
| Submitted By: | Todd Grier on Apr 1, 2007 |
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Better belay spot above the ledge
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Great to top-rope if you have rope gun to set it up. Great to work on the 10+ level on thin hands.
Location Belay on the large slab.
Protection up to 2"
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
May 8, 2007
| Nice crack, mostly thin hands with an occasional hand jam and a long crux move off a fingerlock to a jug. Plenty of rests and good footholds allow you to remain fresh for the crux that shows up just before the top. |
By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Jun 6, 2007
| To the author: I don't think the thin hands part is .10+. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 6, 2007
| In my humble opinion, the thin hands stuff was .10a-ish? Crux for me was the short fingers section, which I found much more difficult than the guidebook crux. |
By Alex Shainman
From: Portland, OR
Jul 10, 2007
| Heads-up! The hold in the crux which your right hand latches after the reach is way loose...The move will probably be easier when it pulls out! |
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 6, 2010
| Bring doubles of the 1.5 - 2.5 friends. Save a small piece for the crux move at the top. |
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010
| got spit off the crux which is tricky, even at 6'4". Keep your feet below you, don't be tempted to leverage your foot off the ledge off to the left side, it will screw up your balance. Use the pods and the sloping ledge for your feet. |
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| In the Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed subdividing the Yosemite Decimal System with letter grades. In his examples for 5.10d thin cracks he listed Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five & Dime, Leaning Meany, and Independence Pinnacle, Center route, p3. |
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 3, 2011
| I know this climb gets done a dozen times a weekend but the final "jug" that you make the big move to is flexing (I climbed it two weeks ago). It seems to be a flake and moves almost an inch. FYI! |
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Mar 4, 2011
| I've done this route only once... but I'm not sure where this flexing jug is at the top. I made the big move, reached up, and just dropped a handjam in the slot at the top. Seemed the obvious way to do it, and I didn't notice any looseness or flexing that way. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 31, 2011
| Flexing jug now gone. |
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012
| FA: Believed to be Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen, 1967
FFA: Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens, 10/1971 |
By Jeff Scheuerell
Feb 2, 2012
| Nope, it's still there and may be there for a long time to come. Or it might get pulled off by the next party, who knows? I think an inch is a bit of an exageration though.
Another awesome pitch! |
By SirTobyThe3rd
Nov 8, 2012
| Heard that jug/flake is gone now. But supposedly did not make the climbing harder. |
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