|The Cookie Cliff
Great to top-rope if you have rope gun to set it up. Great to work on the 10+ level on thin hands.
Belay on the large slab.
up to 2"
Better belay spot above the ledge
A little higher ...
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
May 8, 2007
Nice crack, mostly thin hands with an occasional hand jam and a long crux move off a fingerlock to a jug. Plenty of rests and good footholds allow you to remain fresh for the crux that shows up just before the top.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Jun 6, 2007
To the author: I don't think the thin hands part is .10+.
From: Oakland CA
Jun 6, 2007
In my humble opinion, the thin hands stuff was .10a-ish? Crux for me was the short fingers section, which I found much more difficult than the guidebook crux.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Jul 10, 2007
Heads-up! The hold in the crux which your right hand latches after the reach is way loose...The move will probably be easier when it pulls out!
Jan 6, 2010
Bring doubles of the 1.5 - 2.5 friends. Save a small piece for the crux move at the top.
From: San Francisco
Mar 12, 2010
got spit off the crux which is tricky, even at 6'4". Keep your feet below you, don't be tempted to leverage your foot off the ledge off to the left side, it will screw up your balance. Use the pods and the sloping ledge for your feet.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In the Sierra Club Mountaineering Journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed subdividing the Yosemite Decimal System with letter grades. In his examples for 5.10d thin cracks he listed Catchy, Vanishing Point, Serenity Crack, Olga's Trick, Five & Dime, Leaning Meany, and Independence Pinnacle, Center route, p3.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Mar 3, 2011
I know this climb gets done a dozen times a weekend but the final "jug" that you make the big move to is flexing (I climbed it two weeks ago). It seems to be a flake and moves almost an inch. FYI!
|By Alexander Nees|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Mar 4, 2011
I've done this route only once... but I'm not sure where this flexing jug is at the top. I made the big move, reached up, and just dropped a handjam in the slot at the top. Seemed the obvious way to do it, and I didn't notice any looseness or flexing that way.
From: Oakland CA
May 31, 2011
Flexing jug now gone.
Jan 7, 2012
FA: Believed to be Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen, 1967
FFA: Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens, 10/1971
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Feb 2, 2012
Nope, it's still there and may be there for a long time to come. Or it might get pulled off by the next party, who knows? I think an inch is a bit of an exageration though.
Another awesome pitch!
Nov 8, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heard that jug/flake is gone now. But supposedly did not make the climbing harder.
|By Mr. Stevens|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2013
climbed this back in early June and was sitting on the block just below the anchors bringing my second up to go do catchy corner. When my partner got up, he yarded on the block and pulled himself up onto it and the thing flexed quite a bit. I'm not sure if this is the 'flexing jug' people have been referring to, but this is a microwave sized block and it's definitely moving ALOT.