|Consensus:||Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]|
|Submitted By:||Chip Phillips on Jun 10, 2001|
|Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Catching Waves||Add Comment|
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By Adam Hicks`
Sep 2, 2003
|I did this problem by (DO NOT READ IF WANTING TO FLASH!): Starting left hand on the juf, slapping left to a sidepull oon arete, flinging right to a small sidepull edge on the overhanging face and from there could manage a big throw way out left on the west face to a really good edge. I was wondering if this was it, because if so it felt much easier than V6. I noticed another, smaller hold ON the arete higher up and thought perhaps the problem went to that instead of the bigger edge. Someone tell me if so, please....thanks|
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Sep 2, 2003
Your comment on Making Waves cleared up what you did (kind of a different start to Making Waves - if you are interested try the long reach move with a high foot to go directly to the good edge ... look at the picture [under Making Waves]). Maybe a little more info would have been helpful, but from my problem descriptions, it should be obvious I prefer to let people find their own ways to do problems.
Both problems (Making Waves and Catching Waves) require a lot of body tension for the first moves. What I've called Catching Waves starts on the jug and probably requires a reach up to pinch a small imperfection the arete from which you can pull up and go again with your left to a higher edge on the arete.
From there, use the obvious and good sidepull on the overhanging south face to gain the top and pull over.
Cool problems however you get to the top.