Start on the left side of a block, going up an easy crack. Move up and right across a face to an undercling, and then up a slot into an overhanging, left-facing dihedral. The move up is off an absolutely wicked 2-finger 1-digit finger jam.
Addendum: The flexing flake has gotten much worse over the years. It is hard to understand how this death torpedo is even attached to the rock - and now it moves with the amount of finger pressure needed to grab a pencil. This is threatening to climbers, belayers, and autos below - not recommended.
This route is best done on TR. A trad lead is possible, but not recommended. The crux of the climb would be difficult to protect. A bolt here would be a good addition to the route.
|By Dan Mottinger|
Jun 27, 2005
Note: This is climb #2 in the beta photo. The climb makes a reasonably well protected lead with bomber gear up to the roof and then small nut and microcam placements in the crux section.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
The flake at the crux, which is your ONLY opportunity for pro has a 1/8 to 3/16 inch crack behind it, but flexes ~1/4 inch. If you were to fall on pro behind it you might turn a loose flake into a death flake (fall on you). There is good protection below the roof that would keep you off of the ground, so make sure you get it and then run it out a little- and be SURE you are solid at the grade.
|By Dan Mottinger|
Jul 17, 2005
As Tony mentions, most/all of the gear in the upper crux section is placed in contact with a large, long flake or two that sound kind of hollow with the flake expanding possible. I thought one or two placements in the crux might have held a fall but still wouldn't want to test it out...
There are rap slings in the tree at the top of the climb to descend.
|By Jay Eggleston|
May 20, 2009
This is a very worthwhile climb and easy to do after Electra Glide. The body positions on this climb are very unique.
|By D. Shaw|
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R
June, 2010: Well worth trying on TR, but considerably harder than 9+, me thinks. I was looking and saw little opportunity for pro above the roof, with the exception of behind the tiny little flake, which as mentioned, moves when you pull on it. If you can get past that, there is a marginal slot above that that would take a piece, then the huge flake above that, which also moves when you put weight on it. I'd recommend just leading Electra-Glide then TR this from the tree, and even on TR this is quite a challenging "Yosemite-style" set of moves.
|By Don Bushey|
Aug 12, 2012
Another fun TR from the Electra Glide anchors is the "Goof Roof", which lies between the two climbs. Not really worth wasting the metal on to establish it as an independent line, but there are super fun roof moves to a delicate slab which eventually joins the upper crack of E.G. at about 10+ to 11-.