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 ADVANCED
First Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-Sport, The 
Body Count 
Catch and Release 
Iron Maiden 
Marquis de Sade 
Mists of Avalon 
Sex Slave 
Slayer 
Spare Rib 
Sport Climber's Demise, The 
Sword In The Stone 
Tunnel of Love 

Catch and Release 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,099
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 10, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Catch and Release.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the rightmost route on the First Tier of Avalon. Start about 20' right of Mists of Avalon. Climb up lower-angle rock past two bolts. Clip a bolt over the roof and then make a very hard sequence of moves past the roof. Clip a bolt and make a couple of cool, hard moves up the arete. Gain a stance and easier climbing leads to the anchor. Excellent climbing on good stone.


Protection 

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 24, 2006

Got on this route a couple of weekends ago. It doesn't seem like it has seem much traffic lately.
Question for the FA, is one suppose to "bypass" the lower roof by going to the right and then traverse over on the lip? I tried different things to go over the roof directly, but the holds were thin and the moves burly. The eventual sequence I settled on (and for the upper crux) involved delicate balance rather than brawn.
Fun route detracted from the creek and road noise.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 7, 2010

Shumin, I tried this thing today and had the same question about the roof. My initial instinct was to go above it on the right, then traverse back left but looking at the bolting job, decided that wasn't the intention and so I reversed it back to below the roof. From here, I punched it straight over the roof, with the first roof bolt a bit to my right. Felt really hard this way with awkward holds and powerful reaches/lockoffs. Not sure this was the intended path though....

By SeanKuus
From: Steamboat Springs
Jun 10, 2013

Straight through the roof is heinous and harder than most Bocan 13as. Maybe a hold broke?