This fun climb is located immediately to the left of Fat Cat and tackles a mostly thin hands to hand crack through some difficult pods. An intimidating, dirty roof guards the start. I give this route an "S" due to the roof moves which are protected by a small cam (blue alien) in suspect rock. The moves are no harder than 5.8/5.9 but a fall is not recommended.
After pulling the roof continue through the first pod (burly!) to a very thin hand crack with decent feet out left. A good rest comes before the next pod where, thankfully, the crack widens to perfect hands. The pod is burly but perseverence and determination will see you through.
Opinions will differ as to which pod is harder. I found the second pod to be harder as it is very difficult to place gear in the back.
A mix of cams from #0.5-#2 camalot. A #4 camalot works well in the low pod. A blue alien or purple TCU is key for protecting the dirty roof at the start
|By Joe Collins|
Oct 21, 2002
I also should add that a 60m rope will get you off the route fine. However, the anchor is a bit sketchy, so add some back-up gear (hand-size) if you TR.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
I don't feel this route warrants an R rating at all.
From: Oakland CA
Apr 2, 2011
Definitely not R, but you do have to tread carefully on the lower choss band. Some great corner switches higher up with some tough sizes. Anchors are old but adequate. Could use some love.