|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 110'|
|FA: ||Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer, Suzanne Sanbar|
|Page Views: ||491|
|Submitted By: ||Vernon Stiefel on Nov 3, 2002|
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This route is one of the best I have climbed at J-Tree. Challenging moves on solid rock for about 140' makes this a five star classic.
Begin about 30' left of a vertical crack that does not reach the ground to gain a horizontal discontinuous seam after 10' of easy climbing. Traverse right on thin edges to a point where the seam ends about 10 feet from where the vertical crack begins. A 0 TCU protects committing face moves (5.11) to a huge horn. Turn the corner and ascend the flared, vertical crack (initially thin pro) that becomes wider and lower angle for close to 100'.
A bolted anchor with slings is used to rappel off of the route.
Double ropes work well to minimize rope drag and to rap.
This climb requires very small cams to 3" and medium sized stoppers for protection.