An east-facing, clean, crisp dihedral and most northerly of the three routes on this outcropping. Shares a common platform staging area with 5.7 Book. Sustained 10a moves make up most of this stellar line, with a somewhat desperate pinched-down crux and a few face moves thrown in for variety up higher.
Standard rack with emphasis on small cams and nuts. Rap anchors directly above. Can be toproped after leading the 5.7 Book to its left.
BETA PHOTO: hands free rest. Ok Im really on rappel
|By Mike McL|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 26, 2012
This is a pretty good route, certainly worth doing. A fairly clean dihedral with some fun jamming and laybacking. It takes good gear, and you can get in some solid pieces before the cruxes. Bring some extra finger sized cams.
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I concur with the Colonel the quotes above are from me. One of the FA dooods. The multiple cruxs within the closely sustained other moves all being 5.10 or better really allude to a 10C rating for the ONSIGHT. Which is how i rated all of my climbs.. Yes, the 10A rating was a bit sandbaggish in our eyes when rating it for the guide. Consistency is a hard thing to achieve in rating climbs really. Youve got your on days , youve got your off days, then youve got your dazed dayz..
Whichevah really- it pleases me to see the route gain the attention it has- even being featured on a cover of a local mag in Cali. Good to know there is like minded folk who see the beauty there and like it, just like we first in 1978. And yeah,, it was a HARD lead then. Rattly pro in flares, nary a cam to be known yet. When we sat at the base of the route to be- looking at the surrounding corners and that crack up the slab, we actually thought this might be easier from the ground...Under the influence of heady "erbalage" mind you.
so yup, if you wanna call it a 10C to onsight that would be perfectly fare in my mind. Ive done many 10 C gorge climbs that seemed far easier. Whomever rated it 5.9 is playing games with the rating average mechanism here..lol! ;-)
From: Gardnerville NV
Feb 8, 2013
concur that the route is probably 10c onsight.
|By Ima Fred Knot|
From: Victoria, Seychelles
Feb 8, 2013
Sandbagging's for floods
| || These opinions expressed are not those of any one person but rather the troll that lives under the bridge in all of us ;) |
|By Tele Liz|
From: Davis, CA
Jun 18, 2014
So freakin fun! Loved this climb! Watched my friend lieback the whole dang thing~ highly recommended if you're looking for a good workout and thrashing. I thought it was a fabulous jamming crack with a few lieback/face moves at the top. Agree with the desperate pinch-down move... one of those moments when you're jealous of your 6 ft+ compadres. But WHAT a fun climb! We did laps!