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Clandestine Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Ivy T 
Boogers & Chocolate T 
Cat Daddy T 
Cloak and Dagger T 
Dossier T 
Event Horizon S 
Morning Wood T 
Shot Through The Heart T 
Skinwalker T 
Thunderstruck S 
Wiretap T 

Cat Daddy 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: John Duran & Gary Byzak, August 1988
Page Views: 2,108
Submitted By: LeeAB on Aug 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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John Duran at the crux of Cat Daddy (5.13a), Sandi...

Description 

This was for a long time the hardest completed route in the Sandias and unrepeated on lead. Climbs the obvious crack splitting the steep red wall. The majority of the route is probably hard 5.11+ to a difficult and technical boulder problem at the top.

Climb the varied and steep crack till it pinches off as it curves to the right, do crux moves onto the slab and step right to the bolted anchor of Event Horizon or step back left and climb crumbly rock with a fair bit of lichen to the Autum Ivy anchors.

Rarely lead, possible to TR from the Autum Ivy anchors with a 70m rope.

Location 

Obvious steep crack just right of the ledge spitting the slightly overhanging red wall.

Protection 

RP's, double set of cams to #2 camalot, with more in the off fingers size, bolt anchor.


Photos of Cat Daddy Slideshow Add Photo
Dan Foster floating up Cat Daddy.
Dan Foster floating up Cat Daddy.

Comments on Cat Daddy Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 4, 2008

I carried a double set of cams to a #1 camalot, and it seemed as though you could place something bigger and I wanted an extra #.5 camalot or red alien, maybe 2. The crux protects well with a really good RP or small Stopper, #4 for both I think, though the hard moves are not over till your feet are even with or just above the piece, but hey you're 80+ feet off the ground at this point.
By Mick S
From: Avon, CO
Oct 20, 2011

An awesome route that requires a variety of skills. Jamming, jug pulling, and a hard, face climbing exit. After trying several options, I thought the best pro for the exit moves was a #5 stopper, that requires some patience to place. It is bomber, which is good, since the fall from the last moves is exciting.
By Eric Whitbeck
Jan 10, 2012

Nice job Mick. Best cragging pitch in the Sandias? I wish I could climb the thing clean.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 11, 2012

Eric, you probably could...

Realistically the crux is no harder than V6, it just comes at the end of the pitch. On top of that it is more technical than powerful.
By Eric Whitbeck
Jan 11, 2012

Thanks for the vote of confidence and it may be more of an issue of getting to try, but I still think that boulder problem is tough. I was pleasantly surprised that the climbing up to the boulder problem is not really that hard and quite fun.
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Y'all are both talented and forgetful. The section above the handjam/jug (but below the crux) is technical and always feels hard. It may not be as hard as the section above, but it still is challenging.

Either way, props to all who do this pitch--one of the best in the Sandias. If only we had 10 more like it.
By Eric Whitbeck
Jan 13, 2012

W, you know forgetting pain and difficulty is the key to longevity in the alpine and big wall game. Does open bivying really suck or is it a pleasant night under the stars?
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jan 13, 2012
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

Does open bivying really suck or is it a pleasant night under the stars?

That depends on whether you left the jackets a few pitches below, are wearing long underwear or a hat, if you have enough cigarettes, etc. So many variables go into that one, the only constant being that you are always certain the other guy has it better than you.