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A route that has had a different name and a higher grade (now shorter crux reach due to the hold breaking a while ago).
If you like cranker 3/4" to thinner size locks with minimal solid feet than you'll dig this line!
A #1 Camalot with a QD works well under the roof. What follows next is a sweet and painful section of sustained second digit locks and small Calcite edges capped off with a big reach to a flexy horizontal flake and a quick first digi move to the anchor (used to be a triangle of webbing which saw many desperate lunges for). (12b)
#1 Camalot, (4-5).75, (1).5, (1).4 (optional) Friend size cams
Look at the seamstress in this pic.
E-Crack Durginstein fan club
Yours truly entering the crux. I sent!
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Sep 8, 2007
Although it wasn't a redpoint for her on this occasion, it was perhaps one of my most memorable experiences of pain tolerances...Belaying Heidi Wirtz while she was wearing floppy Mythos and the shoes just weren't working for her, so...After falling near halfway, she ripped the sloppy boats off, threw them down and fired the rest of the route...Barefoot!!
|By Clint Cummins|
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 23, 2009
FFA: Eric Decaria
FA(w/ aid): Marc Sheppard, Clint Cummins, 1990.
We placed the anchor bolts, but were unable to free it even on toprope.
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b
My rack recommendation would be (3) .3 Camalots and (4) .4 Camalots. A green alien works well at the crux.