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Unsorted Routes:

Cat Burglar 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Marc Sheppard, Clint Cummins, 1990. FFA: Eric Decaria
Page Views: 3,117
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Sep 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Ben Riley on Cat Burglar
Photo Cred: Wayne Harney

Description 

A route that has had a different name and a higher grade (now shorter crux reach due to the hold breaking a while ago).

If you like cranker 3/4" to thinner size locks with minimal solid feet then you'll dig this line!

A #1 Camalot with a QD works well under the roof. What follows next is a sweet and painful section of sustained second digit locks and small Calcite edges capped off with a big reach to a flexy horizontal flake and a quick first digi move to the anchor (used to be a triangle of webbing which saw many desperate lunges for). (12b)

Protection 

#1 Camalot, (4-5).75, (1).5, (1).4 (optional) inch size cams


Photos of Cat Burglar Slideshow Add Photo
Yours truly entering the crux.  I sent!
Yours truly entering the crux. I sent!
Look at the seamstress in this pic.
Look at the seamstress in this pic.
E-Crack Durginstein fan club
E-Crack Durginstein fan club
cat burglar
cat burglar

Comments on Cat Burglar Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2007

Although it wasn't a redpoint for her on this occasion, it was perhaps one of my most memorable experiences of pain tolerances...Belaying Heidi Wirtz while she was wearing floppy Mythos and the shoes just weren't working for her, so...After falling near halfway, she ripped the sloppy boats off, threw them down and fired the rest of the route...Barefoot!!

OUCH!!!!!
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Oct 28, 2008

FA: Eric Decaria
By Clint Cummins
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 23, 2009

trivia:
FFA: Eric Decaria

FA(w/ aid): Marc Sheppard, Clint Cummins, 1990.
We placed the anchor bolts, but were unable to free it even on toprope.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 20, 2012
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

My rack recommendation would be (3) .3 Camalots and (4) .4 Camalots. A green alien works well at the crux.