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This is a nice short route but Hubbel's guide doesn't even give it a star! It is one of the best routes I've done in the South St. Vrain (out of about 6).
The route is the right-facing dihedral on the left side of The Monkey Skull, and left of Sunshine Dihedral. This route faces west and is in the shade until about 1PM (in July). Tiptoe up the trail avoiding the poison ivy to the base of the route, where the easy slope funnels down to a narrow chute made of solid rock with a fallen dead tree in it.
The dihedral does not reach the ground, face climb 20' straight up to the crack, passing a small fir tree on your right. This section is runout but is only about 5.5. Move into the dihedral and follow it for about 60', ending at a large fir tree with slings. You can rap back to the base from here with one 50m rope.
Rack to 2".
From the base of the climb.
|Comments on Casual Corner
|By Michael Kullman|
Oct 6, 2002
I agree with George - Casual Corner is an absolutely stellar route, after leading it this weekend I can't imagine why the Hubbel guidebook doesn't even give it a single star. It seemed stiff for its grade (I'm a greenhorn, though), but is really a blast to climb. Plus, you can then easily setup topropes on the rest of the various 5.10 routes that cover this crag (two nice sets of anchors at the top).
As is noted in the description, the start seems a tad run out. But I found a nice thin crack about halfway up to and a bit right of the small fir tree that I protected with a small stopper for piece of mind. Speaking of small stoppers - you will need plenty of them for this climb. I probably used 4 or 5 stoppers in the 2 - 4 size range.
|By Tonya Clement|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2003
This route should have a star. Five of us climbed it and five us had a blast, however only one of us chose to lead it. I will wait until later in the season to lead it as it was a bit pumpy through the section requiring a lie back. Add this one to your list!
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Fun finger tip action going up under the two move roof traverse, and really fun moves getting into the nice finger pockets that start just after the little roof. There's really nice nut placements on this climb, but 1-2" cams are nice as well, I might have used a 3" if I'd had one up higher on the upper section.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
If the whole climb were like the upper 1/2 it would be a 3-star route. It is good, but lacks the consistency to be better than the 2 stars I'm giving it.