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 ADVANCED
The Monkey Skull
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amy, Good Gorilla T 
Casual Corner T 
Fever Dance T 
Fringe Dweller T,S,TR 
Hollow Be Thy Name T,S 
Monkey Trial T,S 
Ripple S 
Skull and Bones S 
Summit Block T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Upside The Cranium S 
Unsorted Routes:

Casual Corner 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,557
Submitted By: George Bell on Jul 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

This is a nice short route, but Hubbel's guidebook doesn't even give it a star! It is one of the best routes I've done in the South St. Vrain (out of about 6).

The route is the right-facing dihedral on the left side of The Monkey Skull, and left of Sunshine Dihedral. This route faces west and is in the shade until about 1PM (in July). Tiptoe up the trail avoiding the poison ivy to the base of the route, where the easy slope funnels down to a narrow chute made of solid rock with a fallen dead tree in it.

The dihedral does not reach the ground, face climb 20' straight up to the crack, passing a small fir tree on your right. This section is runout but is only about 5.5. Move into the dihedral and follow it for about 60', ending at a large fir tree with slings. You can rap back to the base from here with one 50m rope.

Protection 

Rack to 2".


Photos of Casual Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down as Todd Pett solves the crux sequence on Casual Corner.
Looking down as Todd Pett solves the crux sequence...
From the base of the climb.
From the base of the climb.

Comments on Casual Corner Add Comment
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By Michael Kullman
Oct 6, 2002

I agree with George - Casual Corner is an absolutely stellar route, after leading it this weekend I can't imagine why the Hubbel guidebook doesn't even give it a single star. It seemed stiff for its grade (I'm a greenhorn, though), but is really a blast to climb. Plus, you can then easily setup topropes on the rest of the various 5.10 routes that cover this crag (two nice sets of anchors at the top).

As is noted in the description, the start seems a tad run out. But I found a nice thin crack about halfway up to and a bit right of the small fir tree that I protected with a small stopper for piece of mind. Speaking of small stoppers - you will need plenty of them for this climb. I probably used 4 or 5 stoppers in the 2 - 4 size range.
By Tonya Clement
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2003

This route should have a star. Five of us climbed it and five us had a blast, however only one of us chose to lead it. I will wait until later in the season to lead it as it was a bit pumpy through the section requiring a lie back. Add this one to your list!
By craig
Mar 6, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun finger tip action going up under the two move roof traverse, and really fun moves getting into the nice finger pockets that start just after the little roof. There's really nice nut placements on this climb, but 1-2" cams are nice as well, I might have used a 3" if I'd had one up higher on the upper section.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If the whole climb were like the upper 1/2 it would be a 3-star route. It is good, but lacks the consistency to be better than the 2 stars I'm giving it.
By Eliot Augusto
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

It was good. The start and end of the dihedral was awesome, the short traverse right was a bit awkward. A single #2 is all you need to protect the top if you're going for the tree. It felt pretty stiff for a 5.8.