Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Free Form Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Brains 
Barney 
Berlin Wall 
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs 
Castrator 
Cougar 
Cyborg 
Don't Think Twice 
Freeform 
GOBs 
Guilty By Association 
Helter Skelter 
Karma Mechanic 
Laughing Lab 
Matilda 
Minimum Security 
New World 
No Vacancy 
Onomatopoeia 
Partners in Crime 
Pedestrian Gene Pool 
Red Rocket 
Solitary Confinement 
Supermax 
Swinging Chimps 
Take 
Unknown 
Village Idiot 
Unsorted Routes:

Castrator 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,058
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 29, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Cory Pilinko on "Castrator."

Description 

Follow bolts up a finger crack in a left-facing corner, past a flake (crux), and more finger crack leads out a small roof to the chains. If you're interested, you could trad lead this easily and safely with small cams, nuts and a few mid size cams for the flake.

Per Ivan Rezucha: Layback the flake (crux) and make some tenuous moves (also crux?) to another flake. You can rest with a foot jam after surmounting the first flake. Some easy moves lead to a fun roof and the anchors.

Eds. Note: this is a combination of 2 submissions combined into one for organization purposes.


Protection 

About 6 bolts or gear. Would be a safe easy gear lead with small nuts and some small to mid-sized cams.


Location 

Two lines left of Barney (12a Freeform is in between). Named for the small stump in the crack below the high first bolt!

Per Ivan Rezucha: Left of Karma Mechanic is a smooth wall with a bunch of 11 or harder lines. Left of that is a left-facing corner/chimney. Just left of that is a flake leading to a shallow, left-facing corner. There is currently a stick (remainder of a bush) sticking out of the crack below the first bolt.



Photos of Castrator Slideshow Add Photo
Just above the "castrator".
Just above the "castrator".
Cory Pilinko on his first attempt on "Castrator."
Cory Pilinko on his first attempt on "Castrator."
Maybe you can see more of the types of holds in this picture
Maybe you can see more of the types of holds in th...
Comments on Castrator Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 13, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Perfect name - big, wooden scythe intimidates you and motivates you to not even consider falling. I've never clung so tightly to the rock on a lead. This harks back to the philosophical golden days of leading: Leader Must Not Fall. Wouldn't be pretty if you did...

Great route, too. The lieback flake is positive with perfect holds to oppose the feet. Once you gain the ledge you'll see an anchor to your left, a roof above you. Don't scurry to the anchors!! The roof is pulled on immaculate and generous holds, then there's grass in your face until the anchors. A diverse climb that provides a many-tiered experience for the leader. Three stars for singularity.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 17, 2004

I always thought that this was called the Castrator because of the branch between your legs for the second clip. Still a great route though.

By Cory P
From: USAF Academy
Sep 11, 2006

A mini crux comes after the 4th bolt, with a longer (12-14ft) climb to the 5th bolt.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Nov 1, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

As of today the branch down low is still waiting to claim your manhood.