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 ADVANCED
Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake 
Beak, The 
Black Streak, The 
Bob's Nob 
Castlewood Capers 
Cheesedick Soiree 
Cobble Wobble 
Horizontal Bop 
Icerigger 
Nob Job 
Noodlers' Nightmare 
Nose Job 
Phalloid Void 
Pit Viper 
Pocket, The 
Prarie Dog 
Ruse, The 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation 
Sidewinder 
Slot, The 
Song of the Wood 
Sub, The 
Sun Cave Direct 
Sun Cave Right 
Svengali 
Textured Landscape 
Triskaidekaphobia 
Unsorted Routes:

Castlewood Capers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Hanson and Sills, 1995
Page Views: 445
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 6, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Castlewood Capers runs up the right side of the second buttress left of Wendell Spire. Now, I am most decidedly lazy and will take an easy option when given the choice, however, while this enjoyable line has been touted to run straight up buttress two, without a stem to the right, logic, and not laziness dictate the stem. The entry is not even a stem really so much as a back step of no more than two feet. One can pick their poison, but with a back step this goes nicely at 5.11a. Good crimps above and a bit spooky making the thin reach to the left before crawling out to the face proper. Intricate climbing.


Protection 

Quickdraws and a rope.



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By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Dec 1, 2002
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I think it's still 11a w/out a stem.

By Darin Lang
Jun 10, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Although my climbing savvy is always suspect, I failed to see any obvious or logical stem through the crux, unless one were to go way right of the bolt line. The line either straight through or slightly to the left of the bolt line seemed fairly obvious to me, with a tricky reach left from a so-so hold and then a powerful pull/mantel to the third bolt. Fun moves and well-placed bolts.

Would be two stars if the fun moves weren't so brief.

11b/c.

By kevin jenkins
Sep 8, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

This stays solidly at .11a if'n you wise guys stay off of the stem w/ exception of the crux. Well protected! Expect to take a fall getting to the mantel, but bring your brain and use it to, and all will be well...happy climbing!