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Fiddlehead
Routes Sorted
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A Shadow Sickness T 
Castles Made of Sand S 
Chains of Love T,S 
East Face/Fiddle Head T 
Fertile Crescent. T 
Irish Spring T,S 
Leprechaun Promenade S,TR 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint T 
Men Only T 
Surfing Samarsa T 
Unknown Dihedral T 

Castles Made of Sand 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Michael Brothers, 1988
Page Views: 2,143
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 28, 2001

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Anchors on Castles Made of Sand that could use rep...

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor.

    Very fine!

    There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one...

    Protection 

    Big nut at start, 4 bolts, 2 bolt/fixed wires and biners lower off (kind of sketchy! too cheap for hangers!!).


    Comments on Castles Made of Sand Add Comment
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    By doak
    From: boulder, co
    Oct 1, 2007
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Great climb! I thought the bolts were well placed... the cruxes were well protected and the runout bits were easier. The anchor at the top seemed pretty reasonable: the cables were in good shape and there were washers and glue keeping them in place.
    By doak
    From: boulder, co
    Oct 5, 2014
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Really weird, someone stole the biners from the anchor. They wouldn't have been able to lower off the cables, they would have had to top out on Shadow Sickness and come down that anchor (if it existed), or top out and scramble off. We left an old junk biner up there, the next party might want to bring another to add to the anchor.