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DescriptionCastle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan. Getting ThereCastle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. I believe there is currently a small fee for day climbing. The approcahes to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches are between 20-90 minutes for the majority of the climbs. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rocks:
Little Time 5.6 Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Big Time 5.7 Sport, 400 feet Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Handy 5.7 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet East Sector : Comp Rock - East Face
Zinger 5.8 Sport, 3 pitches, 290 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
It Takes Two 5.8 Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Fruit Pie 5.8 Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Coo Coo Cachoo 5.8+ Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
Eye-Full Tower 5.9- Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
To Have and to Hold 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Castle Rock : Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wa...
Between Heaven and Earth 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Red Rib 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 195 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Shock and Awe 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Castle Rock : West Buttress - South
Crimson Arete 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Castle Rock : Castle Rock - East Face
Jug-A-Lug 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Castle Rock : The Crack House
Shop and Compare 5.10a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 260 feet East Sector : The Comp Wall
Mantle Dynamics 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet East Sector : Comp Rock - East Face
Twinkie 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Patina Atoll 5.11a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Honeymoon in Almo 5.11a Sport, 100 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Splitter 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet East Sector : The Comp Wall
Featured Route For Castle Rocks
Coo Coo Cachoo 5.8+ ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Bracksiek's Pillar
Starts on a slabby rib with some interesting moves. Second pitch is amazing, fun, slightly overhanging, patina surfing goodness. ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
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