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DescriptionCastle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan. Getting ThereCastle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. I believe there is currently a small fee for day climbing. The approcahes to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches are between 20-90 minutes for the majority of the climbs. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rocks:
Little Time 5.6 Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Big Time 5.7 Sport, 400 feet Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Handy 5.7 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet East Sector : Comp Rock - East Face
Zinger 5.8 Sport, 3 pitches, 290 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
It Takes Two 5.8 Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Fruit Pie 5.8 Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Coo Coo Cachoo 5.8+ Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
Eye-Full Tower 5.9- Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
To Have and to Hold 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Castle Rock : Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wa...
Between Heaven and Earth 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Red Rib 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 195 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Shock and Awe 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Castle Rock : West Buttress - South
Crimson Arete 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Castle Rock : Castle Rock - East Face
Jug-A-Lug 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Castle Rock : The Crack House
Shop and Compare 5.10a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 260 feet East Sector : The Comp Wall
Mantle Dynamics 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet East Sector : Comp Rock - East Face
Twinkie 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Patina Atoll 5.11a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Honeymoon in Almo 5.11a Sport, 100 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Splitter 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet East Sector : The Comp Wall
Featured Route For Castle Rocks
Jug Massacre 5.8+ ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Jug Wall
As the name implies, this route is crazy, juggy, hueco goodness just waiting to be slayed by your climbing prowess. The first crux between the first and second bolt feels a bit bouldery, while the second crux is up high and involves a fun deadpoint (height dependent). Overall, this route is super fun and worth the hike in my book, if you are in to moderate sport climbing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
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