Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Adam Floyd, Earl Mcalister, Caitlin MacMurtrie
Page Views: 1,615 total · 13/month
Shared By: JF1 on Oct 2, 2013
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

First Pitch: Right facing dihedral with thin gear crux and one bolt down low. 11a/b

Second Pitch: (The goods) A steep "stellar" pitch on great rock with good laybacking and jamming.

You can make it to the ground from the second pitch anchor with one 70M rope. Build an anchor for pitch 2, a #3 camalot can help here.

It is feasible to take the route to the top with a pitch of difficult to protect chossy OW (5.10ish), and a 5.4 unprotected sandy slab.

Location Suggest change

This Route is on the due East face of the Comp Wall, 60 feet left of Trigger. So rather than taking the right to hike up to Handy and Mantle Dynamics, turn left for 60 feet and look for a right dihedral/pillar.
See Topo photo for more details.

Protection Suggest change

Rack with bigger piece for pitch 1 (#4 camalot) and small gear for crux, small nuts key.
Pitch two three bolts to 2 .75 camalots, and one #2 to keep it a tiny bit spicy.

Photos

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