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Castle Rock

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Bonny and Clyde Wall- AKA Drifters Wall 
Moat, The 
North End 
Point Butress(Main Wall), The 
Predator Wall 
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Castle Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.10407, -85.63126 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,846
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jan 27, 2014  with updates from Daniel Cartwright and 1 more
Forecast:
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ATTENTION: Lots of these signs along the approach...

Description 

Castle Rock is the obvious, orange bluff looming over the town of Jasper, TN. This excellent, South-facing sandstone crag is a great Winter crag which hosts almost 100 sport and trad routes ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.14a, with most of the routes falling between 5.11a and 5.12d. The climbs are typically 80-120 feet and involve blocky features, sidepulls, slopers, and technical sequences on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. The harder routes on the Apes Wall tend to be a bit steeper with roof encounters towards the top.

Most of the routes were established in the 80's and 90's, but since it sits on private land, it was closed for almost a decade until a verbal agreement was reached, and a lease was sign by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition(SCC) with help from the Access Fund in 2005.

IMPORTANT!!!
You are a guest on private land. Please take a moment to read the sign at the parking area. Some of the important rules include...

1. Obey the 20MPH speed limit on the dirt road.
2. Do not go into the rock yard across the road from the parking area.
3. Text your make and model to Ms. Phillips(the land owner) at 423-42-9460.
4. If nature calls while you are climbing, stay 200 feet from the stream that flows from Castle Rock and do not tamper with hoses that run down the hill. These supply Ms. Phillips with her water.
5. No fires at the crag.
6. Keep dogs on a leash.
7. Keep noise levels to a minimum.
8. Pack out trash.
9. If SCC parking area is full, do not park.
10. Never block roads or driveways.
11. No camping at Castle Rock. The nearest camping is at Foster Falls.
12. Do not stay past sunset. The gate will be locked after dark.

If you can, show your appreciation for access to this crag by volunteering for a trail day, or donate a few dollars.

For more information on Castle Rock visit The SCC website at
seclimbers.org/modules.php?nam....

Getting There 

From Chattanooga, TN.

Take I-24 West towards Nashville for about 20 miles- passing Nickajack Lake. Just past a huge fireworks store in the median take Hwy 28 North for a few miles to the offramp for Jasper. Go left, under a bridge and into downtown Jasper. Take a right at a light by the courthouse onto Hwy 41 towards Tracy City. After 1.2 miles take a veer left, staying on Hwy 41 which takes you uphill.

A couple of miles after veering left, look for an obvious stone sign that says Greystone on the right. Follow this dirt road until you see a small parking area on the right across from a rock yard.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.9 miles from here

31 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',7],['5.11',7],['5.12',9],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock:
AGR   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 75'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Another Year Gone    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Break Away   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 75'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Sleepless Nights    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Ryobi Royale   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Moat
Orange Peel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Lucky Streak   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Fun Employed   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 85'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Brown Streak   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Swindled   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Streaker   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
The Turret   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Wish I Was Trad   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Predator Wall
Cottonmouth   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Predator Wall
Predator   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Predator Wall
El Che   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Predator Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Swindled 11a/b Right before the final crux.

Swindled 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  TN : Castle Rock : The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Moderate start leads to pumpy 3 bolt section over a "roof". Route eases back for a little bit before the final push to the end. The last crux involves an intriguing finger crack and a good crimper up high and left. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
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By Rockery Press
Oct 13, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock Free Day Guide
Castle Rock Free Day Guide


You can download a FREE Castle Rock Day Guide from Rockery Press by clicking on the following link: rockerypress.com/free-day-guid...

Castle Rock Free Guide includes:
Driving & Approach Beta
Rules & Recommendations
Several days of route descriptions and recommendations
By UncleBen
From: Steele, AL
Jan 13, 2016
No dogs allowed.
SCC FB post

Castle Rock Update: Due to the sensitive nature of the drinking water source running through the crag, the lower landowners at Castle Rock have asked that we no longer allow dogs in an effort to protect their drinking water. It is very important that we get this message out to the climbing community so as not to create a further access issue.
This rule is effective IMMEDIATELY. We will be posting new signage at Castle Rock in the coming weeks. Please help us spread the word!

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