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Castle Rock

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Bonny and Clyde Wall 
Point Butress(Main Wall), The 
Predator Wall 

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Castle Rock 


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Location: 35.10407, -85.63126 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,017
Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jan 27, 2014
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Description 

Castle Rock is the obvious, orange bluff looming over the town of Jasper, TN. This excellent, South-facing sandstone crag is a great Winter crag which hosts almost 100 sport and trad routes ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.14a, with most of the routes falling between 5.11a and 5.12d. The climbs are typically 80-120 feet and involve blocky features, sidepulls, slopers, and technical sequences on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. The harder routes on the Apes Wall tend to be a bit steeper with roof encounters towards the top.

Most of the routes were established in the 80's and 90's, but since it sits on private land, it was closed for almost a decade until a verbal agreement was reached, and a lease was sign by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition(SCC) with help from the Access Fund in 2005.

IMPORTANT!!!
You are a guest on private land. Please take a moment to read the sign at the parking area. Some of the important rules include...

1. Obey the 20MPH speed limit on the dirt road.
2. Do not go into the rock yard across the road from the parking area.
3. Text your make and model to Ms. Phillips(the land owner) at 423-42-9460.
4. If nature calls while you are climbing, stay 200 feet from the stream that flows from Castle Rock and do not tamper with hoses that run down the hill. These supply Ms. Phillips with her water.
5. No fires at the crag.
6. Keep dogs on a leash.
7. Keep noise levels to a minimum.
8. Pack out trash.
9. If SCC parking area is full, do not park.
10. Never block roads or driveways.
11. No camping at Castle Rock. The nearest camping is at Foster Falls.

If you can, show your appreciation for access to this crag by volunteering for a trail day, or donate a few dollars.

For more information on Castle Rock visit The SCC website at
www.seclimbers.org/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=>>>.


Getting There 

From Chattanooga, TN.

Take I-24 West towards Nashville for about 20 miles- passing Nickajack Lake. Just past a huge fireworks store in the median take Hwy 28 North for a few miles to the offramp for Jasper. Go left, under a bridge and into downtown Jasper. Take a right at a light by the courthouse onto Hwy 41 towards Tracy City. After 1.2 miles take a veer left, staying on Hwy 41 which takes you uphill.

A couple of miles after veering left, look for an obvious stone sign that says Greystone on the right. Follow this dirt road until you see a small parking area on the right across from a rock yard.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Orange Peel   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Streaker   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Point Butress(Main Wall...
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Psycho Spasm 13a.

Psycho Spasm 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  TN : Castle Rock : Bonny and Clyde Wall
With some really cool holds, and thoughtful sequences, this slightly overhanging route slowly cranks up the difficulty, ending with a devious sloper crux on perfect rock.An easy start leads to a distinctive mushroom hold at the second bolt. A three bolt, 12- section on knobs, and edges gets you to a rest just below the crux. Find a way through the slippery, slopey features, make a tough clip, and keep it together for the easier finish on iron knobs, and better slopers. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TN

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