Castle Rock is a well known cliff jumping location in Waccabuc, NY. My climbing partner and I recently put up a few DWS lines that are most likely FA's, only because of the sketchy-ness of the climbs. The cliff is atleast fifty feet and isn't completely vertical, so unpredicted falls could be dangerous.. Climb with caution. Water is infinitely deep but the higher you get the farther you need to kick off the rock to ensure a safe landing. The main line goes right up the middle of the rock. Start from the waters edge at the base of the rock or traverse from right to left to get under the middle of the climb. A fifteen ft V0/1 boulder problem puts you on a ledge about a third of the way up the face. There you can choose one of two lines, left or right. The left line is sketchy, loose chossy rock with a shallow fall zone. Its probably a 5.8, but it's an all or nothing solo because falling isn't an option on the left side of the crag due to the decreasing water level. It works up to a rest spot and then moves right, topping out over the middle of the face. The more distinct and difficult line goes directly up the middle of the face, starting at the right end of the low ledge. A protruding flake acts as the handstart to this line. The first sequence of moves getting off the ledge are by far the most difficult and awkward because a slip would result in a fall to the ledge and then a tumble down the face, spotter recommended here!!! Follow a small dihedral up and right almost coming out to the arete of the crag. This line is a 3-part climb. The first is the easy boulder problem to the low ledge, the second is the crux sequence up the dihedral crack to a smaller rest ledge, and the third is a moderate top out straight up. Overall, the climb is probably only a sustained 5.9 but there are certainly 5.10 moves within this line and a serious risk factor that must be accounted for. If not for the sketchy solos, its still an awesome cliff jump and you can play around on the lower half of the rock, but for the thrill seekers I recommend giving it a serious burn. Good luck and give me some feedback, AGAIN: CLIMB WITH CAUTION
RT. 123 to 35, turn right on Mead Street. There will be a car parking pull off on your left hand side and a trail just up the road that leads to the waters edge. Be discrete, its a private lake and the residents aren't exactly friendly. Bring a boogie board to float out on, no boats allowed
Crux is almost exactly midway up the face, right after getting off a prominent ledge on the lower half of the face. There is some hollow rock on the lower part of the face and the left and right sides, so don't stray from the line. The crux consists of a gastonian crimp on the seam of a dihedral. Uncontrolled falls here would be sketchy because of the ledge below that protrudes. Deep water surrounds the crag but its not overhung angles that are ideal for DWS so get a nice kick off the rock if yo...[more]Browse More Classics in NY
if you go here in the summer watch out for the locals (old people) who hate kids swimming/boating/cliff jumping/having fun on "their" lake. last time i went here with my surfboard to paddle across the lake cause its easier than swimming. Some crazy old lady threatened to call the police on me because my board was bringing "invasive species" to the lake...this was before i started climbing so im interested to go back now and try the route..in the morning before the self appointed lake cops get there.