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Castle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel T 
Canary T 
Cat Burglar T 
Century T 
Crack of Doom T 
Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Hangdog T,TR 
Lucky Charms T 
MF Direct T 
MF Overhang T 
Midway T 
Midway Direct T 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
Old Gray Mare T 
Orange Peel T 
Rainbow Connection T,TR 
Rainshadow Direct S 
Saber T 
Saints T 
Satanic Verses T 
Slim Pickins T 
South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 

Castle Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 47.59967, -120.71235 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,660
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ScottH on Jan 26, 2006
Forecast:
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58°
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83° | 56°
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83° | 59°
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89° | 63°
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BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock from across the river

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation.

Castle Rock faces predominately southwest and can get a lot of sun. The rock is split by Logger's Ledge, a wide ledge halfway up the formation. Climbs on upper Castle begin from this ledge, which is reached by an obvious trail from the parking lot. Climbs on the lower half begin near the parking lot.

To descend from climbs which reach the summit of Castle Rock, follow a good climber's trail off the back of the formation down to Loggers Ledge.

Getting There 

Drive approximately 2 miles west up Highway 2 from Leavenworth. There is a large dirt parking lot on the "north" side of the road. From this parking lot, a signed trail leads to Logger's Ledge and upper Castle Rock. The approach is 10-15 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.3 miles from here

27 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',0],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',6],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rock:
Saber   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   
Midway Direct   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   
Midway   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   
Saints   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Canary   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
South Face, Jello Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Damnation Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Devil's Fright   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Angel   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Crack of Doom   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
MF Overhang   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
Satanic Verses   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Slim Pickins   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
MF Direct   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Hangdog   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Rainbow Connection   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Das Musak   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Michael at the crux of Satanic Verses.

Satanic Verses 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Castle Rock
Satanic Verses climbs the white colored rock climber's left of Crack of Doom. The crux is in that white rock, as it is slick and quite polished, resembling the texture of glossy marble in spots. The jams are a bit flared, and it's steep! Surmounting the final roof is quite the hoot on unbelievable jugs!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock from across the street.
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock from across the street.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing on Castle Rock 1978. Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing on Castle Rock 1978. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle rock viewed from across the Wenatchee river...
Castle rock viewed from across the Wenatchee river...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on Castle Rock after cleaning up the b...
Topping out on Castle Rock after cleaning up the b...
Rock Climbing Photo: loggers ledge
loggers ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at Castle Rock, late 1970s. Photo by Blit...
Climbing at Castle Rock, late 1970s. Photo by Blit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying at Castle Rock, Wenatchee River and HWY 2...
Belaying at Castle Rock, Wenatchee River and HWY 2...

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