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Castle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel T 
Canary T 
Cat Burglar T 
Century T 
Crack of Doom T 
Damnation Crack T 
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 
Das Musak S 
Devil's Fright T 
Lucky Charms T 
MF Direct T 
MF Overhang T 
Midway T 
Midway Direct T 
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 
Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 
Old Gray Mare T 
Orange Peel T 
Rainbow Connection T,TR 
Saber T 
Saints T 
Satanic Verses T 
Slim Pickins T 
South Face, Jello Tower T 
Winter Solstice T 

Castle Rock  


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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ScottH on Jan 26, 2006
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Castle rock viewed from across the Wenatchee river...

Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Castle Rock is home to many of the classic climbs in Tumwater Canyon, and is home to Washington's first multipitch, technical rock climb (Midway, Fred Beckey 1948). Historic climbs such as Angel Crack and Midway offer options for trad leaders seeking a range of difficulty from challenging to mellow routes. In general, the rock quality is excellent though many routes are highly polished from extensive traffic. Pitches leading to the summit of Castle rock can be somewhat indistinct and somewhat runout, offering an adventuresome feel on a well-traveled formation.

Castle Rock faces predominately southwest and can get a lot of sun. The rock is split by Logger's Ledge, a wide ledge halfway up the formation. Climbs on upper Castle begin from this ledge, which is reached by an obvious trail from the parking lot. Climbs on the lower half begin near the parking lot.

To descend from climbs which reach the summit of Castle Rock, follow a good climber's trail off the back of the formation down to Loggers Ledge.

Getting There 

Drive approximately 2 miles west up Highway 2 from Leavenworth. There is a large dirt parking lot on the "north" side of the road. From this parking lot, a signed trail leads to Logger's Ledge and upper Castle Rock. The approach is 10-15 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

25 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',0],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Saber   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 2 pitches, 280'   
Midway   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad   
Midway Direct   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   
Winter Solstice   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Saints   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Old Gray Mare   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Canary   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
South Face, Jello Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Damnation Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Angel   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Crack of Doom   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
MF Overhang   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad   
Satanic Verses   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Nose, of Jello Tower   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
No Such Thing as a Free Lunge   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 70'   
Das Musak   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
The quintessential shot of P2.

Canary 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Castle Rock
Canary ascends from the right side of Logger's Ledge and reaches the top of Castle Rock in 2 pitches (3 may be necessary with a 50m rope). A memorable line, Canary combines interesting climbing with terrific exposure.Approximately 100 feet to the left of Saber, a short section of face climbing leads to a right facing dihedral and a broken crack system that reaches the left side of Saber ledge. This is the start of Canary.P1. Begin by climbing approximately 15 feet of unprotected face to the b...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Castle Rock from across the street.
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock from across the street.
Climbing on Castle Rock 1978. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing on Castle Rock 1978.
Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing at Castle Rock, late 1970s. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Climbing at Castle Rock, late 1970s.
Photo by Blit...
Topping out on Castle Rock after cleaning up the belay. The view is down canyon toward Leavenworth. July 4, 2007.
Topping out on Castle Rock after cleaning up the b...
loggers ledge
loggers ledge

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