Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Castle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Altered-Acro 
Athlete's Feat 
Atlas Shrugged 
Bailey's Overhang 
Beetle Bailey 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) 
Big Splash, The 
Black Crack, The 
Boot Lead 
By Gully 
Cadaver Crack 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The 
Circadian Rhythms 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge 
Coffin Crack 
Comeback Crack 
Country Club Crack 
Crank It (aka Slabio) 
Curving Crack 
Cussin' Crack 
Cussing Fingers Variant 
Deadline 
Deersquatch 
Direct Start 
Dropout Option 
E-Z Action 
Englishman's Home 
Final Exam 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The 
Gluten Free 
Hardboiled 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot 
Jackson's Wall 
Jackson's Wall Direct 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment 
Nintendo 
No Fly Zone 
Nobody's Home 
One 
Pass Fail Option 
Polyester Leisure Suit 
Queen is Dead, The 
Rebellion 
Replacement Killers, The 
Skunk Crack 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The 
Stingay 
Storming the Castle 
Subterranean Homesick Blues 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past 
Tongo 
Tourist Extravagance 
Trainspotting 
Water World 
West Face 
West Face, Direct Start 

Castle Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,800'
Location: 39.9787, -105.4551 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 242,779
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Good Page?1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Clear
51° | 34°
Partly Cloudy
61° | 38°
Chance of Rain
59° | 30°
Snow
37° | 26°
Partly Cloudy
41° | 24°
Chuck Grossman doing it right in boxer shorts and ...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.

There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.

There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.


Getting There 

About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!


72 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',11],['5.10',8],['5.11',14],['5.12',11],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',3],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',6],['>=V14',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Acrobatic Overhang   V5 6C R     Boulder, 20'   
Standard Bulge   V5-6 6C+     Boulder, 12'   
The Acro-Aerial   V7 7A+ PG13     Boulder, 18'   
The Citadel   V8 7B     Boulder, 10'   
Free Range   V13 8B     Boulder, 12'   
Cussin' Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Bailey's Overhang   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad   
Curving Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Black Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   
South Face   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Skunk Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Comeback Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Athlete's Feat   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Country Club Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   
Englishman's Home   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
The Gill Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Never a Dull Moment   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Nobody's Home   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 135'   
Mexican Picnic   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 135'   
Deadline   5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Climber: Daniel Woods. <br />Photo: Andy Mann.

Midnight Express V14 8B+  CO : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock
Up the hill from the south face of Castle is a low outcropping/boulder with an obvious arete and flake. Start low on sharp sidepull with your right hand and a very low sidepull for your left. There have been ascents done starting with the big pinch just left of the right sidepull but the FA was done with the first method. Battle your way past several desperate moves up the flake to a perilous finish at the lip.Certainly one of the most classic lines on the Front Range with easy access and a comp...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Charles "The Back" Grossman
Charles "The Back" Grossman
Results from 5/20/2011 . <br />Volunteers moved about 20 yards of fill to create a nice, terraced base along the west face.
Results from 5/20/2011 .
Volunteers moved about 20...
The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
The nice "new" base @ Castle Rock.
BH bouldering at Castle Rock.
BH bouldering at Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Castle Rock.
Comments on Castle Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 12, 2008

Because Castle Rock has long been popular for picnicing, I'd say the Forest Service is about fifty years overdue for the installation of outhouses and trashcans. Especially compared to the facilities you find on Forest Service land near other Colorado ski areas.

Get with it Nederland, Boulder, and Eldora Ski Area. It shouldn't just be up to the Forest Service to treat our tourists like valued customers.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Sep 12, 2008

For some reason I seem to remember the city of Boulder has sway over Castle Rock. I remember picnicking there as a very young child with my family and the picnic tables along the creek were all maintained. And I'm certain it was Boulder that did it. In high school we'd leave party's on friday nights and drive up the canyon and bivi where the tables use to be. Great fun.

By Rick Mix
Oct 6, 2008

Hey now! FYI: new anchors on Curving Crack. New S.face rappel, dig: top of Athlete's Feat is a sloping ramp. First anchor is on the edge of said ramp. Next is at the top of the 3rd pitch. This was two OLD pitons, that judging by the webbing and biners someone actually rap'd on. Not good.... So, there are also bolts @ top of 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches, so you can get down fer-sure with this route. Yeah yeah, I know you can down-climb the N. face. Now you can rap the South. All bolts are 3/8 ss with chains/rings, 3.5" long. Have fun and be careful out there!

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2008

Rick,
You could rap the route on a single rope before, just off to the side. There was a bolted rap already there.

By pfwein
Jun 19, 2010

Triple Threat = South Face (aka Jackson's Wall Direct), Country Club, and Athlete's Feet in 1 day. Needed some help from the rope on P2 of CCC and P1 of AF. All clean will be Boulder Canyon dream day.

By da old man
Jul 18, 2012

Found green sling, locker, and figure eight in last Sunday's rainstorm.