view of the park from my friends land
This is the largest rock formation in the park at about 300 ft tall. There are a number of good multi-pitch climbs on the rock. This is the first area to be developed at Castle Rocks, and there are about 100 routes on and around this main formation. The majority of the routes are in the 5.7-5.10 range due to the low angle nature of the rock.
The Castle Rocks Sector is not the largest area, however it is the most concentrated. Home to over 125 routes and growing, this sector is the closest and most obvious. Sport routes, trad routes, and multi-pitch routes as long as 300 feet long will be found, as are most of the classics climbs.
A majority of the lines here are sport, while others are mixed. There are a number of pure cracks of great quality, but don't expect to come here for those specifically.
Nearly all routes I can remember have chain anchors. Most routes can be rappelled with one rope, but like the City of Rocks, its best to carry a 70 meter rope, although it is not mandatory.
Approach time is about 5-10 minutes up a well-traveled trail/double track.
This formation is obivous from the parking lot and is about a third of a mile west of the parking lot. There are number of well marked trails to access the different areas, so please stay on the trails and buy a guidebook from one of the local shops in Almo. There are currently 2-3 different guidebooks for the area.
Weather station 14.2 miles from here
72 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock:
Featured Route For Castle Rock
Big Time 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b ID
: Castle Rocks
: ... : Castle Rock - South Face
This route is located on the south slabs of the main formation. This would probably be a 3 star route, if it was not so overbolted. Most climbers will feel OK clipping every other bolt on the majority of this route. There are 4 30M pitches to this route and is a good intro to the area. There are bolted anchors at each belay, so it makes for a quick outing to top of the formation. Rap the route with a single 60M rope.A good way to climb this route is to combine the first and last 2 pitches t...[more] Browse More Classics in ID
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Jul 23, 2014
I have never been here and have no book...and its hard to get lost.
You can now drive up trailhead 3 minutes from the rock. AND they have installed signs to all the classic climbs on the trail. If you get lost you must of not gotten out of 1st grade.
This is fantastic. Just like climbing in Europe or Muir Valley Red River Gorge.