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Castle Rock Spire

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East Face T 
Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire), The T 

Castle Rock Spire  


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Location: 36.4333, -118.6833 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,219
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Schoney on Jul 28, 2009
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castle rocks from the south face moro route

Description 

These two walls face each other. Most routes on Castle Rock Spire get sun in the a.m. and The Fin gets afternoon sun (depending on which rt.). Like most alpine peaks, it can get windy. This area is not crowded, due to a burly approach. Quality rock and amazing views...huge adventure! The Spire is said to have seen less than sixty ascents.

Getting There 

Sequoia Nat. Park, Paradise Creek Tr. starts near Hospital rock. Also approached via Mineral King Tr.

R.J. Secor's "Peaks, Passes and Trails" has full details.
The Moser guidebook "Kings Canyon, Sequoia" is helpful yet vague.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.7 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock Spire:
The Regular Route (Castle Rock Spire)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock Spire

Featured Route For Castle Rock Spire
The east face of Castle Rock Spire

East Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1  CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : ... : Castle Rock Spire
The route is a very steep, direct and continuous line following a crack system from the base to the summit. It offers almost exclusively crack climbing with everything from a thin seam to chimneying. The 5.9 C1 rating is from the first and only ascent but the route will definitely go free to a strong group. The east face of castle rock spire was the first route attempted on the formation back in 1949. John Salathé and Jim Wilson turned back after creating a short bolt ladder next to pitch tw...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Castle Rock Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Bill on the summit.
Bill on the summit.
Castle Rocks SEKI CA
Castle Rocks SEKI CA
CRS seen from below.
CRS seen from below.
We made it! Pretty happy moment for me.
We made it! Pretty happy moment for me.
Castle Rock Spire area. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Castle Rock Spire area.
Photo by Blitzo.
The jungle. This is after the PO, we have changed out of the "protective suits" and are continuing onward and upward.
The jungle. This is after the PO, we have changed ...
Taking a rest break.
Taking a rest break.
The fin
The fin
The cool belay spot. After the crux and some 5.9 you get to this spot. A very old bolt, placed on the FA is still there. Amazing historical piece, please leave it alone. Levy and Rachel caught up to us here as we were getting ready for the last two pitches.
The cool belay spot. After the crux and some 5.9 y...
CRS view from Moro Rock
CRS view from Moro Rock
Castle Rock Spire and the Fin as seen from bobcat point.  Sequoia Natl. Park, CA.
Castle Rock Spire and the Fin as seen from bobcat ...
Best Bivi spot. Located on the Fin.
BETA PHOTO: Best Bivi spot. Located on the Fin.
The approach from atwell mill
The approach from atwell mill
CRS as seen from the Fin.
BETA PHOTO: CRS as seen from the Fin.
The spire
The spire
Crux pitch, 5.11b
Crux pitch, 5.11b

Comments on Castle Rock Spire Add Comment
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By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Jul 24, 2013
Descent can now be done with one 70m rope via the East Face route.