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Herrington-Hirst 

Castle Peak 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,306'
Lat, Long: 48.9838, -120.8688 Map
Page Views: 1,988. Good page?   
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: blakeherrington on Jun 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The North Face of Castle Peak. The leftmost three ...

Description 

Castle Peak is a remote granite mountain sitting at the intersection of Whatcom County, Okanogan County, and the US/Canada border. It is seldom climbed, and seldom seen (from up close) yet holds fantastic rock and scenery, with an approach that isn't too long by local standards. Additionally, the glacier at the foot of the North Face is mellow enough to allow for easy travel. The alpine meadows at the foot of the north face are sublime.

The Kearney route, on the East Buttress of the South Face, is included in his Selected Climbs book, but has likely only seen one repeat. It is meant to be a good climb.

The Colorado Route (Glick/Pennings/Medara) has likely not been repeated. It looks classic.

The Herrington/Hirst route was attempted by at least one party before being completed in 2008. It may share an initial pitch or 2 with the Colorado Route.

The Berdinka/Layton Route (Sod-On-Me) goes from great climbing to a mossy/dirty, lower-angled feature. It has seen at least one repeat.


Getting There 

Approach is best done via Canada's Hwy3 East of Hope, BC - Manning Provincial Park (visitor center here) - Hike to the Frosty Mountain lookout (good marked trail) - Head south cross country, over international border, obvious terrain to North Face.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Peak:
Herrington-Hirst   5.10d Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1400 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Castle Peak

Featured Route For Castle Peak
The North Face

Herrington-Hirst 5.10d Easy Snow  WA : North Cascades : Castle Peak
This route was climbed in the summer of 2008 on an attempt to repeat the 1993 Colorado route. The routes may share the same first two pitches. The 1993 route moves out to the right onto the buttress crest. We were unable to figure out where the climb moved right, it could have been under the hanging snow patch, gone in a rockfall incident, or a clever traverse we did not see. In any case, the route done was enjoyable and on excellent stone.Cross the Glacier, should be fairly low-angle. Moat may ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA