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Whitewall Mountain (East side of Zealand Notch Itself)
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Black Knight , The T 
Castle Keep T 
Lady Slippers T 
Red Queen (unfinished), The T 

Castle Keep 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Teresa Nagle and Bradley White, summer 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 832
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 8, 2010

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Teresa leading the start in sneakers.

Description 

I scrambled right up the slab half way and the into the trees. Teresa stayed in the center and finished the slab 100ft (the slab has some steep bulging sections too, that would require bolting). At the top of the slab we traversed right away from the trees onto a decent belay stance. Above our stance, Teresa led up a flaring outcrop of rock and onto face climbing until the next tree ledge was reach (90ft). From this tree ledge move up the face until the right facing ramp is reached. Exit ramp onto ledge and traverse north until decent belay is reached (110ft). Climb up into the left facing ramp and move right and up to top off in sandy rocky sloping surface. Climb this until tree belay is reached (90ft).
To create the four star route do the first pitch of 'The Red Queen' and on the second pitch head diagonally north to reach the first belay ledge stance of 'Castle Keep'. Doing the climb this way will be on solid fine granite rock except for the last pitch ending that is conway granite with some wedged and loose rocks on it, that aren't a bother.

Location 

Head up the northern side of the widest middle talus field.

Protection 

TCU's are very helpful. #2-2.5 friend. Some small to medium stoppers, A couple of lost arrow and blade pitons.


Photos of Castle Keep Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Keep is the white rock ridge going diagonal...
BETA PHOTO: Castle Keep is the white rock ridge going diagonal...
Rock Climbing Photo: The north rockslide buttress and the wet rock is p...
The north rockslide buttress and the wet rock is p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Teresa liked the second pitch.
Teresa liked the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Some sunny day.
Some sunny day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finding our way down by heading north.
Finding our way down by heading north.
Rock Climbing Photo: halfway to the trail.
halfway to the trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Overhang above right to us.
Overhang above right to us.
Rock Climbing Photo: Teresa starting the last pitch.
Teresa starting the last pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northern terrain.
Northern terrain.
Rock Climbing Photo: The last pitch ramp. The rock in the crack is loos...
The last pitch ramp. The rock in the crack is loos...
Rock Climbing Photo: Not exactly what I wanted to down climb this long ...
Not exactly what I wanted to down climb this long ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Right of the ramp and above the overhang.
Right of the ramp and above the overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower down on the north rockslide buttress.
Lower down on the north rockslide buttress.
Rock Climbing Photo: The granite block exit section of a recent rock sl...
The granite block exit section of a recent rock sl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Queen can go to Castle Keep. This connection c...
BETA PHOTO: Red Queen can go to Castle Keep. This connection c...

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