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Castle in the Sky 

Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7- Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Bonamici or Old School
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 770
Submitted By: madisonchoss on Sep 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Peter cutting loose on the FA

Description 

Start seated on a block down and right. Make a big move into a good flake then trend left across the face. Top out and and run up the high but easy slab.

Location 

200 yards up from the fruit problems, 200 yards slightly up and left from The Great Eye.

Protection 

4 pads (2 big ones) would be sufficient but you may want more.


Photos of Castle in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Dobbe getting into it.
Dobbe getting into it.
Egghead
Egghead
I pulled the jug off the lip. When I grabbed it it flexed so I dropped and pushed it out with a stick. Remo wouldn't have walked away if it broke on his go. There is now a hole that will need to get cleaned up and still go at same grade. Very fun moves.
I pulled the jug off the lip. When I grabbed it it...
Moving out.
Moving out.
Baker
Baker
To the lip!
To the lip!
Egghead
Egghead

Comments on Castle in the Sky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian CB
Sep 15, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+ R

If you enjoy proud and fun climbs this should not be missed.
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 16, 2013

Wow this looks sick!
By madisonchoss
Sep 23, 2013

Ian may be exaggerating the safety thing here. If you're comfortable in the v7 range you can probably do this with 4 pads (2 big, 2 simple with a spotter). If not, you may want 6 but it'd be worth hiking them up there.

That being said, you really don't want to dry fire off the second to last move because you'd probably miss the landing and take a 25 foot fall into the talus.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 10, 2013
rating: V6 7A PG13

Amazing line! Some chossy rock, otherwise a great problem.
By Ian CB
Nov 10, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+ R

Psyched you guys got on this. This is such a stunning block.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 11, 2014
rating: V7- 7A+ PG13

Bitchin problem. We had 6 guys and 16 pads on this today, with a little send train. Choo choo!! Ian added a harder finish that I'll post up later with pics.