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Castle Dome

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Madirjian's Banana T 
Southeast Arete  T 

Castle Dome Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 36.88061, -118.4566 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,785
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: SirTobyThe3rd on Jul 24, 2014
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Castle Domes as seen from basecamp

WHITNEY PORTAL ROAD CONSTRUCTION MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Castle Valley is one of the most beautiful meadows and really original rock could be found on the domes towering above it. Many opportunities for adventure climbing, scrambling, hiking and first ascents. No wonder the full Rae Lakes Loop is one of the most popular hikes in the High Sierra - the area is fantastic. Prominent dome has two reported routes. One of them goes up the impressive Southeast Arête and the other goes up one of the dihedrals to the left of the prominent SW face. SE arête goes straight to the summit of the peak, where as the other route stops about 400 ft below the top. In any case, the views of surrounding peaks are incredible. You will not find a line at the base of these routes. Even though there has been much talk about this area, only two recorded ascents (one each for each route) have been made.

Getting There 

Follow Rae Lakes Loop trail for 95% of the way. Other 5% of it is very straight forward cross country. Start from the Road’s End parking area and follow a well maintained trail towards Bubbs Creek/Paradise Valley. After about two miles, take a left turn and hike North towards Paradise Valley. If you find yourself on steep switchbacks going towards Bubbs Creek, you went too far. Continue up the valley for several miles and make a right (East) turn towards Woods Creek. You will cross a bridge there and have another 3.5 miles till you reach the Castle Valley – one of the most beautiful spots in Sierra Nevada. From there, we went up to the base of the long wall that led to Castle Dome and traversed below it.

Climbing Season

For the 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Cedar Grove area.

Weather station 14.7 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Dome:
Southeast Arete    5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Dome

Featured Route For Castle Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Dome. SE Arete is the right skyline of the ...

Southeast Arete 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : High Sierra : ... : Castle Dome
Approach: It would be very difficult to get lost on this approach, since it follows the well marked and maintained Rae Lakes Loop trail for 90% of the way. Other 10% of it is very straight forward cross country towards the obvious Arête. Start from the Road’s End parking area and follow a well maintained trail towards Bubbs Creek/Paradise Valley. After about two miles, take a left turn and hike North towards Paradise Valley. If you find yourself on steep switchbacks going towards Bubbs Creek, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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