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The Dedication Area
Routes Sorted
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Castaways T 
Dedication T 
Diss-N-Dazz T 
Move it or Lose it S 
Robinson Crusoe T 
Six Bolts and a Plug S 
Soul Survivor T 

Castaways 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: webster 81
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: john strand on Jul 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A stiff little number. Ever thinning crack line that ends just in time. Was very hard with fixed knifeblades and rated 5.10 now has bolts.


Location 

In the middle of the cliff on a small buttress. The groove line above is Robinson Crusoe.


Protection 

thin gear and bolts- tree anchor



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By burlap submariner
Jan 8, 2011

you would be very hard pressed to find the pg-13 on this route. every move you make in the crack section has bomber gear at your face, the face section has the bent pin but the moves getting to the next bolt are not that bad considering the next two clips are tricky given the streno nature of the arete. great route with great gear.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 11, 2011

You are prolly right- it's been a while and I have never done it with the bolts.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jan 12, 2011

I deleted the PG-13 rating.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 17, 2011

Cool, I guess if you skip the bolts, it might be R by now ! Those KB's were shaky in '82

By burlap submariner
Jun 12, 2014

climbed this route for the first time in several years yesterday. Forgot how great this route is, the bottom half is strenno laybacking to a decent no hands rest with gear at your feet and the pin at your shoulder. the slabby arete is an excellent test of body tension and slabby edging technique. I found an excellent high foot that helps you get the balanced position for clipping the crux bolt. Such a fun and hard outing!