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Jean De La French (not his real name) from Santa F...
About 50 yards into the canyon, this route is just around the corner from the popular route "Whipping Post
". Look for an astonishingly blank swath split by a thin crack...that is "Sitting In Limbo
", "Cassandra" is just to the right.
This route is a welcome change from many of the hard routes in the canyon, in that there are actually holds! Many of the hard routes in Penitente require straight down pulling on microscopic shadows, but this route has holds that don't go straight down, and the first 30 feet or so are actually overhanging.
Boulder up the overhanging section to a no hands rest before a final slab crux that keeps you honest.
There has been some funny business on this route. Some of the pockets are not in there "natural" state. I think the pockets themselves are original, but they probably were "comfortized", or "aggressively cleaned".
Nevertheless, it is a beautiful line that has fun and interesting moves.
K. McLaughlin on upper addition/ variation of Cass...
By Nathan Welton
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Very cool route, though the moves feel way more difficult than those on Virgin No More just up canyon. I'd say this is a solid grade harder, despite the business being much shorter. Definitely not as classic.