Casino Royale 

The third bolt is a tough clip, so be ready. I clipped it with my left hand.

While there are probably no moves harder than 10+, the traverse is sustained, and the move to the fourth bolt is tricky, so 11a overall.

One of my favorite face pitches in Indian Cove Campground.

OMG - squeezius maximus!!Might as well rap bolt Panama Red while your at it.

Hey Duke: you can call it a squeeze job, but essentially its a traverse between two existing routes. You clip the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverse almost straight left over to Panama Red. The last three bolts are on Panama Red in the same spots as the chopped bolts. (It had been previously bolted, then chopped, many years ago) I did my best to patch the ugly scars and craters that existed from the result of whomever did the chopping- it wasn't pretty.

Climb the route before you dis it! Dave Mayville did the second ascent and he thought it was great.

There should have been one bolt already in place on Panama Red (near the top) which I placed about 1998 or so.

You're right Chris, there was one bolt still there, I believe it was the second to the last bolt (which would be the fifth bolt on the route) which was good to go.

Poor route. Squeezed in and a contrived bolt line. Clips are hard because the good holds are on existing and adjacent routes.

The only tough clip is the third bolt. Besides the traverse, all of the climbing (and bolt clips) are on previously existing routes: Panama Red (which gets 3.7 stars on mountain project) and Sweat Band (2.5 stars). The traverse consists of an incredible series of edges, on some nice patina, across one of the steepest sections of King Otto's south face. I'll admit it's contrived, but it's also very fun.

Sorry Bob. I think you really forced one here. No way no how is this a 3 star route. 1 max.

Great route Bob. I've done it a few times. Really good movement. Not a squeeze job at all. Like you said...you added a bolt to join 2 routes...and the climbing between them is good.

I led this route on-site last week, it is easily the best route in the Indian Cove Camp Ground area.

So the route is a one bolt link up? Maybe that was my problem, we were trying to stay independent of Panama Red I think... Agreed that the 12' of new climbing was on good rock.

Very nice pitch. No giveaway either.

Did this one again the other day to see what you guys saw...

The traverse isn't 30', more like 15, on nice patina edges after doing 10 feet of sweat band, then a finish on panama red. The traverse is indeed the best climbing on the route, but that 15 new feet doesn't make it the best route in the CG by a long shot in my opinion.

Not sure why this needed a new bolt, but the 15' traverse is indeed the best climbing on it. Traverse itself is about 5.10-, once you get to the white rounded edge/seam at the end of the traverse (i.e. Panama Red) the rock quality goes a tad funky and the crux shows up. Cold conditions will help with the rounded sidepull(s) on sloping grain where it joins P.R. Not even close to the "best route in the CG", not even the best route on this block IMO...but tastes differ I suppose. This one tastes like a contrived link up that avoids the best parts of both routes it links. YMMV.

caughtinside,

Bob edited the route info and subsequent comment to reflect the truer nature of the traverse, from 30ft to 15ft.

Be careful clipping the traverse bolt as a fall will likely land you on the slab below; clipping the 3rd bolt on Sweat Band with a long sling, downclimbing and then doing the traverse is more involved but safer.

Good rock and some fun moves on the traverse but it really should have been left as a toprope. One star out of five.

Don't think I've ever seen a route get the full spectrum from four stars to a "bomb" rating.

I guess either way you look at it, this route is "da bomb!"

Still one of my favorites in the Indian Cove Campground- fun to toprope, but a demanding lead.

Those chains at the top anchor are getting very rusty....time to fix up that anchor.