Casey's Route 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | unknown to me |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Oct 29, 2005 |
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nicole leading the route between "anunnaki" and "n...
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Description This climb not apparently described in the book, nor is it named or rated. It is on the on the wall's main face, 1/2 way between "NEAT" and the "Anunnaki Pillar." You will see a pair of twin cracks with thin hands on the left and chossy, intermittent tips and seams on the right that reach a anchor at 70' or so up. Climbing the leftmost of these with the occasional aid of the right one is probably 5.10. Climbing it with the 'eliminate' of the crack on the right might provide 5.10+ challenge. The route used to finish at a single bolt and 2-fixed-stopper anchor, but that was updated by the addition of a bolt.
Protection Various, thin hands to hands.
| Comments on Casey's Route |
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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 8, 2005
| new bolt(3/8" SS triplex)added to existing single bolt anchor, and fixed nuts removed.
Fun route. Stiff start, but good hands higher, and bomber finger locks on the steep part. The right crack helps with the feet (ie. stemming). |
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Feb 21, 2007
| This is a fun route, i give it 3 stars. a good warm up if the popular routes are occupied |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 17, 2008
| I believe this route is in the Bloom book and is listed as climb #13, Unknown 5.11. The whole route climbs 120 feet to an upper anchor. I really like the lower part of this route that climbs to the first anchor. Good stuff. |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Oct 17, 2009
| The new guide book calls this route Cassey's Route, but still lacks to inform you of the midway anchor. This is a great thin hands splitter to the midway anchor, not to be missed... doesnt really look like anyone ever goes past the midway anchor. |
By 303scott
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| Good route. I thought the bulge was solid 10+. Does anyone know what the gear is like to the second anchor? It looked a bit thin/absent... |
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