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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
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A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
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Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
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Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

Case of the Fags 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Josh Lyons, Zach Holtzman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: J.Lyons on Nov 11, 2007
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Case of the Fags.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in the obvious dihedral for 15 feet to a ledge, then go up easy an unprotected wide crack for 5 feet. Head left on horizontal crack to find a thin crack up the left side of the face for 25-30 feet.

The wide section has some loose rock, but it is easily avoided by climbing on big holds outside of the crack. The thin crack (crux) through the face is sequency, sustained, and steep.


Location 

The left of two cracks which are around the corner, to the right of Edge of Reality, on the East face of the pillar. In between Edge of Reality and Heterohedral.


Protection 

The bottom corner is two inches. The wide section has a spot at the bottom for a #3.5 Camalot in good rock. The wide crack is unprotected and created by a large, dettached block, be careful! The first good gear after this is small TCUs to 1 inch in the horizontal crack. The main crack takes small units and brass. It is very well-protected. Built gear anchor on top and descended on Tool King chains.



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By J.Lyons
Nov 11, 2007

We were not sure whether these two cracks have been done. We talked to Dan Hare and he acknowledged climbing the right crack, but didn't know of anyone getting on the left crack. After attempting it and cleaning off loose rock in and around the crack, along with the difficult sequency moves, it had the signs of an unclimbed route. The crack on the right contains some sweet, wide groveling to hands.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The grade on this one is pretty safe from any downgrading. As well, if you expect to have anythign resembling fun on this, tape up your fingers because this one is a sharp "eater" of a crack with rough uneven edges.
Had I had tape at the beginning instead of blood knuckles at the end, I might have given this an additional star.

By J.Lyons
Oct 26, 2010

Tony B! That's great you climbed that thing. I think you are the only other person that has climbed it. I know it's a little sharp, but you might have been having a case of the fags that day. So, I think you might want to re-think that second star. Just kidding. I was thinking of putting an anchor in and maybe a bolt in that wide section which if I remember correctly was easy climbing but unprotectable. I really didn't think anyone else would climb it, so I left it alone. Oh and thanks for upgrading my route, that made my night.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2010
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I'd leave it bolt-less. The hard climbing is the thin stuff anyway and has 3-4 good placements between a rough fall and the crux. Nice work doing that, I thought it was quite hard.

By George Bracksieck
May 2, 2012

On May 16, 1975, I led Patti Smith (not THAT rock star) up the right-hand crack. I thought it was about 5.9. If I were to name it, I would have called it "Acid Crack," in keeping with the theme of the route we did later that day (which we thought was Acid Rock, but instead was on the right side of this face and to the LEFT of the Bihedral route). Until now, I've never seen mention of this crack in any guidebook or database.

By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
May 3, 2012

"Case of the Fags"? Really? Man, I am so ready to get the F out of Boulder... would you have named this 'Case of the niggers?' .
but hey, looks like a decent climb! [If I was strong enough to climb 11d on gear, hah.]

By zHoltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2012

George, I thought it was a worthy crack to be documented. Perhaps "Acid Crack" should be added to the list.

Phil, did you leave Boulder yet? Your blog is cool. I really enjoyed reading about all the cool things you do. I can see why one can take a look at this route name and be offended; however, I've never known climbing to be politically correct. Words aren't always as they seem. Page through a couple more guidebooks. Also, for someone so offended, you are really quick to throw the "n word" out there. Smoke more fags and get strong. Have fun. Boulder won't miss you.

By Phil Persson
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 25, 2012

Thanks, but that is exactly what I mean, dude.... I'm all for being 'politically uncorrect', but I think saying 'case of the fags', as in disease or something, goes a little beyond that into clearly being offensive. Maybe I'm overreacting a bit, but I've read plenty of guidebooks and out there climb names I'm just tired of people dismissing stuff like this as being 'no big deal.' If something makes you feel like shit, well then it is kinda a big deal. And yah, I'm not in Boulder anymore, I'm actually living in Northern Sweden now, a stone's throw from Yosemite-quality granite on the sea and bigwalls galore in Northern Norway, with hardly anyone there. So, life's not so bad. Though my comment wasn't so much directed at 'Boulder' as much as a certain attitude I suppose exists everywhere I just felt I was seeing a little much of. Anyways no hard feelings and thanks for checking out my blog!

By slim
Administrator
Jun 25, 2012

I had always thought it was an old British term that meant "to be tired".

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 26, 2012

In the old days, it meant a pack of cigarettes.