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This is a great training route that can be done in a long day, though most will choose to spend a night on the ridge. Probably the best route from the Bunny Flat Trailhead.
From Horse Camp climb the obvious ridge to the left. This joins Casaval at about 9,800 ft. Follow this ridge to the base of Misery Hill and then to the top.
Descent via West Face Gully or Avalanche Gulch is the easiest choice for parties doing this without setting up a base camp. Otherwise, descend back down the route (this is the safer choice during high avalanche danger as well).
Solo. Some parties choose to bring a rope and a few pickets to belay the exposed "catwalk" depending on conditions and experience.
BETA PHOTO: Casaval Ridge is the ridgeline on the left
Looking back after gaining the ridge. About 10,500...
BETA PHOTO: A party on one of the steeper portions of the ridg...
Catwalk, most fun part of the day, crux was much l...
BETA PHOTO: A party belaying the catwalk. Pretty decent exposu...
BETA PHOTO: Summit of Mt. Shasta
BETA PHOTO: The last part of the ridge. Follow this part of th...
BETA PHOTO: Casaval Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Looking back on Casaval Ridge from the summit. The...
BETA PHOTO: the "Catwalk."
Just me and the skis on a one day solo mission up ...
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2010
Thinking about running up this route as a more fun alternative to avalanche gulch.
How hard is routefinding? Both gaining the ridge, and the ridgeline before misery hill?
How much rock were you climbing versus snow? When do you think conditions will be best?
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
May 11, 2011
FA: 1963, Bob Rears and Jack Davidson.
By Don Morris
From: Denver, CO
Apr 2, 2013
Recommend high camp before summit at 11,800 feet. Also called the second window. A ski descent from here into Avalanche Gulch can be made.