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|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure between Laughing Man to V-3 MORE INFO >>>|
Climb to the right side of an overhang that is approximately 40-45 feet up and directly right of an obvious white section of rock. Traverse right a bit, then pass a bulge. After the bulge, go straight up another 40 feet or so to a small ledge below a larger roof; you will be below and a bit right of a large, left-facing, left-leaning corner. Go to the roof, traverse left (crux) then make a belay.
Some clean and pleasant face climbing and then a brief, intense crux; this route is much better than it looks.
Rappel with two ropes, or traverse 40 feet left and downclimb to the ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Casa Emilio. The second option is easier than it may sound and only requires one rope.
Use the last yellow-blazed trail on the Carriage Road. When the trail meets the cliff, walk left about 25-30 feet to the start. You should be 10-15 right of a shallow, right-facing, right-leaning corner that is about 10 feet high.
Standard 'Gunks rack.
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 23, 2012
Nice face climbing (a couple of 5.7ish spots) leads to a burly traverse. I think the traverse is harder if shorter. Well protected. We rapped off a tree to the far left, a 70M rope had us back on the ground.