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 ADVANCED
Ridge 1
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adulterer, The 
Adultress, The 
Arrogant Bastard 
Casana Rojo 
Cyber Spraylord, The 
Fornicator, The 
Golden Shower 
Impersonator, The 
Imposter, The 
Inseminator, The 
Real Men of Genius 
Shootin' Off At The Mouse 
Shootin' Off At The Mouth 
Silver Saddle 
Stranger (aka The Left Hand Route), The 
Wild Blue Yonder 
Unsorted Routes:

Casana Rojo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rob Woolf and Jeff Frizell
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: richard magill on Jan 1, 2004
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Description 

This line is on the upper reaches of Ridge 1, in a sector with significant new route activity.From the prominent dihedral, it is uphill about twenty feet.

This is a very short line (35-40 feet), but it packs a lot of punch!Two cruxes lie above. The first is at about 15 feet where a sick tendony mono is encountered. The second is at about 25 feet where you run into a tricky and powerful roof sequence.Both crux sequences are about 12a.One of the best short lines around!

This line was originally protected by only 3 bolts, but the first ascensionist added 1 bolt to temper the nasty ground fall potential.


Protection 

4 bolts to anchors



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By Chris Archer
Jun 1, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Good climbing (low in the grade) that is marred somewhat by bolt placements. The second bolt is in a depression that loads the biner in a way that stresses the gate in a disconcerting fashion. You can't flip the biner either because of the pocket that it is drilled in. placing the bolt on any of the flat rock nearby would eliminate this and not affect the clip. The last bolt placement is also at an odd location. Extend it with a long sling or two so your rope is clipped in below the sharp overhang. A better location would have been up and left of its present location in the bulge.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 27, 2006

Considering when this route went in it may have been drilled by hand. One more recent bolt has been added.