| Ridge 1 |
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Casana Rojo 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Rob Woolf and Jeff Frizell |
| Submitted By: | richard magill on Jan 1, 2004 |
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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This line is on the upper reaches of Ridge 1, in a sector with significant new route activity.From the prominent dihedral, it is uphill about twenty feet.
This is a very short line (35-40 feet), but it packs a lot of punch!Two cruxes lie above. The first is at about 15 feet where a sick tendony mono is encountered. The second is at about 25 feet where you run into a tricky and powerful roof sequence.Both crux sequences are about 12a.One of the best short lines around!
This line was originally protected by only 3 bolts, but the first ascensionist added 1 bolt to temper the nasty ground fall potential.
Protection 4 bolts to anchors
By Chris Archer
Jun 1, 2004
rating: 5.12a
| Good climbing (low in the grade) that is marred somewhat by bolt placements. The second bolt is in a depression that loads the biner in a way that stresses the gate in a disconcerting fashion. You can't flip the biner either because of the pocket that it is drilled in. placing the bolt on any of the flat rock nearby would eliminate this and not affect the clip. The last bolt placement is also at an odd location. Extend it with a long sling or two so your rope is clipped in below the sharp overhang. A better location would have been up and left of its present location in the bulge. |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 27, 2006
| Considering when this route went in it may have been drilled by hand. One more recent bolt has been added. |
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