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Casa Diablo Mountain

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First Wave Buttress 
Parking Lot Crag 

Casa Diablo Mountain Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 37.5758, -118.5556 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,162
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: live_it on Mar 26, 2012
Forecast:
Overnight

43°
Friday

71° | 43°
Saturday

68° | 36°
Sunday

59° | 31°
Monday

52° | 28°
Tuesday

61° | 31°
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BETA PHOTO: Boulder = The Ancestor Featured problem = Cry Danc...

Description 

Casa Diablo Mountain is situated in the middle of the Long Valley Caldera, with spectacular views of the White, Glass, and Sierra Nevada Mountains.
There are only a few routes here, but development is taking place. Half the climbs are north facing and the other half west facing.
This is a great mild weather climbing spot that is lower than the Mammoth area climbs and sits a bit higher than the Owens River Gorge.
There are a fair number of easy and moderate climbs here.

Getting There 

From the 395 head east on Benton Crossing Rd. Drive 18 miles and turn right on a dirt road (3S02) (The Mammoth Area Rock Climbs guide says there is a sign, but it is very weathered)

Drive for a few miles (6 or 7ish) on a great dirt road (one of the best I have been on in the Sierras)Keep left at the first T (still 3S02) Continue on 3S02 and at the second T stay right (still 3S02) ^Check out the photos below of these turns ^

You will now be running parallel to Casa Diablo Mountain, Turn left between two trees on 04S134. Continue on a washboarded road and take the left turn onto 04S134F There is a small round parking area.

From the parking you can see a few climbs, these climbs are not in the guide book, the ones in the guide book are on the left side of the rocks.

Climbing Season

For the Mammoth Lakes Area area.

Weather station 17.1 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Casa Diablo Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Casa Diablo Mountain:
Unknown E   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Parking Lot Crag
Unknown D   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Parking Lot Crag
Step Up or Ketchup   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Parking Lot Crag
The Rubster   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Parking Lot Crag
Fat Bastard   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Parking Lot Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Casa Diablo Mountain

Featured Route For Casa Diablo Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting established in the lieback crack after the...

Honeymoon's Over 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : First Wave Buttress
Start on the far left end of the buttress below the steep exfoliating face.With hands on a good small crimp make a hard sequence of moves up to a positive flake high on the right. With the flake at hand continue to the good hueco and the first bold.The opening moves are bouldery and the first bold fairly high so you may want to stick clip this bolt.Continue from the first bolt up the good lieback crack then up onto the hanging slab.Continue directly up the slab following the line of bolts all...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Casa Diablo Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: High up on the final moves of The Rubster on a per...
High up on the final moves of The Rubster on a per...
Rock Climbing Photo: Passed the crux, but still some tricky moves above...
Passed the crux, but still some tricky moves above...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last turn toward the crag Sign reads 04S134F
BETA PHOTO: Last turn toward the crag Sign reads 04S134F
Rock Climbing Photo: First turn off of 3S02 The sign reads 04S134
BETA PHOTO: First turn off of 3S02 The sign reads 04S134
Rock Climbing Photo: Casa Diablo Mountian
BETA PHOTO: Casa Diablo Mountian

Comments on Casa Diablo Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Apr 30, 2012
When driving it can be easy to miss the first left turn after about a mile. If you take the right fork, you could find yourself all the way at pocketopia.
By maggie-girl
Oct 13, 2013
Lots of drilling happening out there! Loud... Happy to finally see some route info.
By Brandon Matthes
Jan 3, 2014
Great place with stellar views, and a nice break from the crowded boulders in bishop and the owens river gorge. From what I climbed its super super fun stuff and nice amount of protection (bolted almost gym like, didn't mind it a bit.) Reminiscent of Joshua Tree style rock.

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