BETA PHOTO: First turn off of 3S02 The sign reads 04S134
Casa Diablo Mountain is situated in the middle of the Long Valley Caldera, with spectacular views of the White, Glass, and Sierra Nevada Mountains. There are only a few routes here, but development is taking place. Half the climbs are north facing and the other half west facing. This is a great mild weather climbing spot that is lower than the Mammoth area climbs and sits a bit higher than the Owens River Gorge. There are a fair number of easy and moderate climbs here.
From the 395 head east on Benton Crossing Rd. Drive 18 miles and turn right on a dirt road (3S02) (The Mammoth Area Rock Climbs guide says there is a sign, but it is very weathered)
Drive for a few miles (6 or 7ish) on a great dirt road (one of the best I have been on in the Sierras)Keep left at the first T (still 3S02) Continue on 3S02 and at the second T stay right (still 3S02) ^Check out the photos below of these turns ^
You will now be running parallel to Casa Diablo Mountain, Turn left between two trees on 04S134. Continue on a washboarded road and take the left turn onto 04S134F There is a small round parking area.
From the parking you can see a few climbs, these climbs are not in the guide book, the ones in the guide book are on the left side of the rocks.
The Rubster takes you to the highest point of the rocks that form this section, and provides fine exposed face climbing on the second pitch.1. 5.10b Climb the arete, either by laybacking the edge or using small crimps on the left side. At the top of the arete move up the slab and climb the short face and slab up to the anchors.2. 5.10a Climb up the slabby face to the obvious break just below the midway point. From here continue up the steeper head wall to a precarious couple of last moves...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Great place with stellar views, and a nice break from the crowded boulders in bishop and the owens river gorge. From what I climbed its super super fun stuff and nice amount of protection (bolted almost gym like, didn't mind it a bit.) Reminiscent of Joshua Tree style rock.