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Casa Diablo Mountain

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First Wave Buttress 
Parking Lot Crag 

Casa Diablo Mountain  


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Elevation: 7,400'
Location: 37.5758, -118.5556 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,268
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: live_it on Mar 26, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Boulder = The Ancestor Featured problem = Cry Danc...

Description 

Casa Diablo Mountain is situated in the middle of the Long Valley Caldera, with spectacular views of the White, Glass, and Sierra Nevada Mountains.
There are only a few routes here, but development is taking place. Half the climbs are north facing and the other half west facing.
This is a great mild weather climbing spot that is lower than the Mammoth area climbs and sits a bit higher than the Owens River Gorge.
There are a fair number of easy and moderate climbs here.

Getting There 

From the 395 head east on Benton Crossing Rd. Drive 18 miles and turn right on a dirt road (3S02) (The Mammoth Area Rock Climbs guide says there is a sign, but it is very weathered)

Drive for a few miles (6 or 7ish) on a great dirt road (one of the best I have been on in the Sierras)Keep left at the first T (still 3S02) Continue on 3S02 and at the second T stay right (still 3S02) ^Check out the photos below of these turns ^

You will now be running parallel to Casa Diablo Mountain, Turn left between two trees on 04S134. Continue on a washboarded road and take the left turn onto 04S134F There is a small round parking area.

From the parking you can see a few climbs, these climbs are not in the guide book, the ones in the guide book are on the left side of the rocks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 17.1 miles from here

21 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Casa Diablo Mountain:
Unknown F   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport   Parking Lot Crag
Unknown C   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 80'   Parking Lot Crag
Unknown D   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Parking Lot Crag
Unknown E   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Parking Lot Crag
Step Up or Ketchup   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Parking Lot Crag
The Rubster   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 130'   Parking Lot Crag
Fat Bastard   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   Parking Lot Crag
Browse More Classics in Casa Diablo Mountain

Featured Route For Casa Diablo Mountain
Passed the crux, but still some tricky moves above...

Fat Bastard 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Parking Lot Crag
Start from the ground (not the boulder behind), and climb the vertical face via some fingery moves up to better holds at the second bolt.From these holds continue up the wall with a few more sustained moves until a rail is reached.Once at the rail cruse up to the anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Casa Diablo Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
High up on the final moves of The Rubster on a per...
High up on the final moves of The Rubster on a per...
Casa Diablo Mountian
BETA PHOTO: Casa Diablo Mountian
Last turn toward the crag Sign reads 04S134F
BETA PHOTO: Last turn toward the crag Sign reads 04S134F
Passed the crux, but still some tricky moves above...
Passed the crux, but still some tricky moves above...
First turn off of 3S02 The sign reads 04S134
BETA PHOTO: First turn off of 3S02 The sign reads 04S134

Comments on Casa Diablo Mountain Add Comment
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Apr 30, 2012
When driving it can be easy to miss the first left turn after about a mile. If you take the right fork, you could find yourself all the way at pocketopia.
By maggie-girl
Oct 13, 2013
Lots of drilling happening out there! Loud... Happy to finally see some route info.
By Brandon Matthes
Jan 3, 2014
Great place with stellar views, and a nice break from the crowded boulders in bishop and the owens river gorge. From what I climbed its super super fun stuff and nice amount of protection (bolted almost gym like, didn't mind it a bit.) Reminiscent of Joshua Tree style rock.
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