Cary Granite 

This is a nice alpine outing that doesn't seem to get done very much judging by the super sharp, clean cracks. Expect a little loose rock here and there, but overall the quality is good. Pitch 1 & 2 combine for a great long 5.11 pitch with ~20 ft of simul climbing. P3 is relatively short, ~ 80 ft, but it takes a lot of cams 1.5" - 4.5", double 2.5" - 4". P4 & 5 also combine easily into one 5.10- pitch. Double ropes are nice to have as you could practically TR the dicey traverse. Bring a few extra units for the belays on P2 (mid-range) & P3 (4").

Just did this again yesterday with Tom Dickey. The flake that you need to pull on at the crux is so sharp that I cut my fingers pretty badly this go round. I would definitely suggest taping your fingers at the first and third joints.

Sick route with tricky "Co. welcome party-like traverse" ! followed by upside down perfect hands out a roof!

Great Route!
Couple notes: rack wise bring one blue Metolius/red C3, doubles from #0.4- #4. You could tripple up on 3s, but I didn't see any reason to.

As for the belay on top of the crux pitch, my #4 didn't fit the crack, but there is a nice ledge out left with a bolt that you can equalize with some small pieces.
Get on it!

Just did this route yesterday and it was rad. After the crux traverse pitch into the hand crack over the roof, we made an anchor 20' above the roof using a BD #3 and #4. The next pitch took us to the top of the wall. This pitch required leap frogging a BD #5 for roughly 60' of well-featured, wide crack climbing into 5.6 face to the top.

This route is stunning, one of the most splitter I have done in Colorado. Hard traverse, followed by a radical, steep roof on the crux. Awesome! My partner cut her fingers going over the roof as well, so tape is a good idea. I accidentally ran the crux & following pitch together. It worked out well. There was very little rope drag. I brought too much gear. Didn't place anything smaller than a 0.3 Camalot and only a few nuts, but 2 of everything else up to #4 is nice. No #5 necessary. There are two small fixed nuts in the bottom crux. The pitch would be better if they were taken out.

Does it get much better than this? A must do for the area.

Best of the routes on the wall. Don't let the grades or stories intimidate you. If you can climb 5.11, you can do this.

It looks like you can do the 5.11 traverse three different ways.
-Hands on the horizontal with bad feet
-Feet on the horizontal using the low side pulls
-If you are over ~6'2", you can grab a great crimp halfway so the hard moves are right next to your gear.

I would recommend taping your 3 middle fingers on both hands. The flake above the roof is SHARP! The 1st 20ft of P4 would be unprotected without a #5 C4. I guess if you have small knees, the climbing would be very secure.