Carthenogian is a fun route that protects well all the way through. The start and finish of the climb are the two cruxes with easy climbing in the middle. The route starts with a nice lieback and then follows two parallel cracks. Once the cracks end continue up past the tree and climb up or squeeze behind the huge block and then follow the thin crack in the corner to the top.
This route lies left and just around the corner from Eternity in and is 15ft to the right of Psychopath in the very obvious corner. The best way to get down is rappelling from the Eternity anchor.
I couldn't find a fixed anchor at the top, nor were there any areas to build an anchor, so you might want to stop and build 10-15ft below the top of the route, bring up the second and then go up and then traverse right at the top of the route to the rap anchors on Eternity. The large ledge that traverses over to Eternity is easy but exposed and unprotected. Alternatively this could all be done in one long single pitch, but the rope drag would be terrible. Standard Rack.
Austin leading up the first section of Carthenogia...
|By stephen arsenault|
Jan 7, 2014
Another beautiful line put in by John Ewbank and J.Worrall in 1966.