This is an inviting looking, right-angling crack that is just left of Dihedral #1 or "Left Dihedral" in this website guide. Well, it invites, but it doesn't delight. It is loose. If you have to, you have to. There is a rappel point at 100 feet up that is less than inspiring. There is a 2 bolt anchor above. I wouldn't get that curious.
Wires and cams, more smaller cams.
Addendum: the anchors have been updated.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Oct 15, 2002
There is are cactuses growing in the crack about 12 feet up. Ouch! This is a fun route, but the belay anchors are pretty sketchy. I would not trust them.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 30, 2004
This route is better than it looks from the ground. The first 20 feet or so are loose and crumbly, with pro adequate but perhaps not bomber. After that, the rock is solid with sound, abundant pro. In early May of 2004, the anchor was, in my opinion, safe. The crux of this route is in the first 20 feet, and, while probably not 5.9, should not be attempted by a leader not solid at that grade (due to the friable rock).
I thought it was worth the time.
|By Ben Boykin|
From: Cheyenne, WY
Mar 27, 2007
This reminded me of home (Vedauwoo) from the ground but requires more smaller stuff than one would think. Hesitate to dispute the rating, because it wasn't so hard for a 9, but it was kinda delicate and facey near the top. An extra anchor point at the finish would certainly be a little more reassuring, the drilled angle on the left sticks out enough that I easily tied it off to anchor myself!
No cacti in the crack on our ascent. (Whew!)
Jan 2, 2012
Looks like someone replaced the anchors on this route recently. The right bolt sticks out a bit, but they are both solid and better than what was there before.
|By Joe Brannan|
From: Erie, CO
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Felt like 5.7 with one or two 8+ finger lock moves as the crack rolls out right. Cool tricam pocket just past the crumbly stuff. A fun route with good gear well worth a 20 minute investment.
|By Alexander Nees|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
MUCH better than it looks from the ground. The bottom 20 feet is soft but not too bad, and the rest is on fine rock with fun climbing. The anchor is bomber, the cacti are gone... maybe this has cleaned up since the original, fairly negative description was written, but it's now quite a nice climb. Looks wide but doesn't actually need anything larger than a #1 C4.
|By BJ Sbarra|
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 22, 2013
Agreed that this has really fun movement, but the rock is pretty junky compared with the other routes on this wall. Definitely a heads up lead. Thought it was easier than the dihedral just to the right.