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Monument Canyon
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Carter Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harvey T Carter
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 12, 2002
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Description 

This is an inviting looking, right-angling crack that is just left of Dihedral #1 or "Left Dihedral" in this website guide. Well, it invites, but it doesn't delight. It is loose. If you have to, you have to. There is a rappel point at 100 feet up that is less than inspiring. There is a 2 bolt anchor above. I wouldn't get that curious.


Protection 

Wires and cams, more smaller cams.

Addendum: the anchors have been updated.



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By Anonymous Coward
Oct 15, 2002

There is are cactuses growing in the crack about 12 feet up. Ouch! This is a fun route, but the belay anchors are pretty sketchy. I would not trust them.

By Anonymous Coward
May 30, 2004

This route is better than it looks from the ground. The first 20 feet or so are loose and crumbly, with pro adequate but perhaps not bomber. After that, the rock is solid with sound, abundant pro. In early May of 2004, the anchor was, in my opinion, safe. The crux of this route is in the first 20 feet, and, while probably not 5.9, should not be attempted by a leader not solid at that grade (due to the friable rock).

I thought it was worth the time.

By Ben Boykin
From: Cheyenne, WY
Mar 27, 2007

This reminded me of home (Vedauwoo) from the ground but requires more smaller stuff than one would think. Hesitate to dispute the rating, because it wasn't so hard for a 9, but it was kinda delicate and facey near the top. An extra anchor point at the finish would certainly be a little more reassuring, the drilled angle on the left sticks out enough that I easily tied it off to anchor myself!

No cacti in the crack on our ascent. (Whew!)

By garrettem
Jan 2, 2012

Looks like someone replaced the anchors on this route recently. The right bolt sticks out a bit, but they are both solid and better than what was there before.

By Joe Brannan
From: Erie, CO
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Felt like 5.7 with one or two 8+ finger lock moves as the crack rolls out right. Cool tricam pocket just past the crumbly stuff. A fun route with good gear well worth a 20 minute investment.

By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

MUCH better than it looks from the ground. The bottom 20 feet is soft but not too bad, and the rest is on fine rock with fun climbing. The anchor is bomber, the cacti are gone... maybe this has cleaned up since the original, fairly negative description was written, but it's now quite a nice climb. Looks wide but doesn't actually need anything larger than a #1 C4.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 22, 2013

Agreed that this has really fun movement, but the rock is pretty junky compared with the other routes on this wall. Definitely a heads up lead. Thought it was easier than the dihedral just to the right.