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Routes in Ridge 4 aka Mohling Arete
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Anthem To the Sun T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Carrot Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Club Salute T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Dialing For Dollars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Grande Parade T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Hammer Case T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A2 PG13 |
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Lightning In The Sky T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R |
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Mohling Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Under The Influence T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | B. Horan & S. Shangdahl, 1980s |
| Page Views: | 700 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 10, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of May 16, 2018, per Flatirons Climbing Council: the raptor closures have been lifted here due to no or failed raptor nesting.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Currently 105744237 is not applicable.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Start as for Dialing For Dollars, but continue up and left (5.6? at first), traversing more than rising under the belly of a huge flake for 40' or so before reaching a crux right after good gear. Turn up and go more vertical by a clean section of rock at the feet (5.9+) and then go left again until the flake disappears. When the flake runs out, go vertical (5.10a) to an anchor on a shelf to finish on good holds. Clip the anchor and check it out to be sure it is solid. Back it up with a 2" cam to the left until you are ready to rap.
When we arrived at this climb, the anchor was a total loss- the sheath of the cord on the hex turned to fiber and powder when rubbed between my fingers, and the old sling snapped under light pressure when we pulled on it. I proceeded to "shred" the sling with not more than 30 lbs force. This anchor must not have been used for at least a decade. We replaced the slings and added a nut, but did not have any 5mm cord to re-sling the hex, which is now on a "sheathless" cord.
When we arrived at this climb, the anchor was a total loss- the sheath of the cord on the hex turned to fiber and powder when rubbed between my fingers, and the old sling snapped under light pressure when we pulled on it. I proceeded to "shred" the sling with not more than 30 lbs force. This anchor must not have been used for at least a decade. We replaced the slings and added a nut, but did not have any 5mm cord to re-sling the hex, which is now on a "sheathless" cord.
Location
This route starts at the base of Dialing For Dollars and diverts left after just a few feet.
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