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Start directly beneath the overhanging corner. Move up and left then back right, placing a few tcus. Climb straight up into the corner. Crank the stout corner move and float up the remaining crack/corner to one of the best belay ledges in the gorge.
To get down you have two choices. Move up and left to a large pine tree or locate a bolted anchor on the front of the belay ledge.
Located at Middle Hawksbill. Follow the trail down from the main wall past all of the sport routes. Just past a long low roof is a steep, overhanging, left facing corner. This is it.
Medium tcus and medium to large cams. 2 yellow camalots are helpful.
|By Coz Teplitz|
From: Watertown, MA
Jun 17, 2009
I think this is a great route - wonderful rock, cool moves, deliciously steep without being heinously so. However, I think it's much easier than 5.11b/c - I give it a 5.10+. Maybe it's 'cause I'm tall, but I expected to fall on this many more times than I did.
Whatever the grade, it's worth the effort.
|By Ben Sachs|
Jun 18, 2009
Short crux and huge holds make this one pretty reasonable. Probably not 5.10 but certainly easier than other 5.11s around.
|By sean barb|
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Aug 29, 2009
that belay ledge and its spot in the gorge is 4 stars.
|By wes calkins|
Sep 4, 2011
Finally got the redpoint after a few days of effort. What an awesome pitch. I thought the gear was the crux but then again i am only 5'5. Definitively thought that it was an 11 though it did have solid holds through the crux.