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Middle Hawksbill
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Carpe Freeum 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Lee Carter
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,059
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Jun 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Start directly beneath the overhanging corner. Move up and left then back right, placing a few tcus. Climb straight up into the corner. Crank the stout corner move and float up the remaining crack/corner to one of the best belay ledges in the gorge.

To get down you have two choices. Move up and left to a large pine tree or locate a bolted anchor on the front of the belay ledge.


Location 

Located at Middle Hawksbill. Follow the trail down from the main wall past all of the sport routes. Just past a long low roof is a steep, overhanging, left facing corner. This is it.


Protection 

Medium tcus and medium to large cams. 2 yellow camalots are helpful.



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By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I think this is a great route - wonderful rock, cool moves, deliciously steep without being heinously so. However, I think it's much easier than 5.11b/c - I give it a 5.10+. Maybe it's 'cause I'm tall, but I expected to fall on this many more times than I did.

Whatever the grade, it's worth the effort.

By Ben Sachs
Jun 18, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Short crux and huge holds make this one pretty reasonable. Probably not 5.10 but certainly easier than other 5.11s around.

By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

that belay ledge and its spot in the gorge is 4 stars.

By wes calkins
Sep 4, 2011

Finally got the redpoint after a few days of effort. What an awesome pitch. I thought the gear was the crux but then again i am only 5'5. Definitively thought that it was an 11 though it did have solid holds through the crux.