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 ADVANCED
Humphrey's Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carpe Diem T,S 
Central Chimney Direct T 
Evening Light T 
Frog Leg T 
Sugar Magnolia T 
Wench's Dihedral T 

Carpe Diem 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 26, 2002

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Description 

This is one slaberiffic route. The business on this outting consists of a blank face with old bolts for pro. As Jim Donini might say, it's steep but at least there are no holds. Start with an easy crack system left of the Central Chimney on Humphrey's South face.

Pitch 1: Climb broken crack system up and left to a ledge, 5.7, 100 feet.

Pitch 2: Slabadaba up the face past five bolts to a small overlap, belay above, 5.10c, 110 feet. This pitch gets an "S" rating due to old bolts, it's harder than it looks.

Pitch 3: Follow easy crack up to a large ledge and belay. 5.6, 55'.

Descent: Walk off to the climber's left.

Protection 

Bring nuts and cams up to 3", quickdraws, and some slabbin' shoes.


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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 16, 2013

The bolts were old and scary in the 1980s when I did this, can't imagine what they're like now.