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Carol's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steinfell Club '64
Page Views: 3,140
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 21, 2005
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Leading Carol's double cracks-great stuff!

Description 

AKA: Double Cracks. This is on the left side of the west face. It is in deep shade early morning. It is easy to identify by the closely spaced double cracks that start on top of the large leftward rising ramp. Scramble up the ramp any way you choose, then jam the fun crack for 50 feet or so until it lowers angle. No anchor at the top.

To rap, scramble to your right (when facing the cliff) to an anchor. A one rope rap with a 60m touches down near the ground, where a short scramble off is easy.

The climbing on this is really good, but the upper crack is so short that it is over too quickly!


Protection 

This is a hand crack - mainly hand sized pieces, but bring a variety of pieces.



Photos of Carol's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Stephi, leading the lower portion of Carol's Crack.
Stephi, leading the lower portion of Carol's Crack...
Climber on the right is on Adolescent Humanoid, on the left is Double Cracks
BETA PHOTO: Climber on the right is on Adolescent Humanoid, on...
Dean Allison enjoying the climb and day
Dean Allison enjoying the climb and day
The yellow arrow indicates Carol's "double cracks" Carol's Crack 5.8+
BETA PHOTO: The yellow arrow indicates Carol's "double cracks"...
Carol's (Twin) Cracks to the left, Adult Homosapien to the right
Carol's (Twin) Cracks to the left, Adult Homosapie...
Comments on Carol's Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2005

This is commonly called carol's crack. Great route..eats up stoppers...Not to be confused with the Route "double Cracks 10a" on the backside of the king on his throne.

By Nathan Fisher
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great route, with some great exposure. Wider gear on the crack getting to the top of the pedestal. Whereas, the double "ski track" cracks, can be sewn up with whatever you bring. I used mainly smaller stuff, 2 inches or less. You will need to set up your own anchor, and their is a set of chains to rap off of to climbers right. You will need a 70 meter, and that barely reaches.

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 7, 2007

All you should need is a 60m rope to rap off - the down climb is nothing intense.

By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2009

Great fun did the direct start rather than the ramp, it wasn't too strenuous if you like stemming.

By ted coxworth
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Direct start adds to this climb. Don't cheat yourself!

By Mattym
Aug 23, 2009

Nice steep cracks, definitely "full value" for the grade. Takes good gear.

By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 19, 2011

Really fun stuff. As a 5.8 this felt much harder than Skyline or Rye Crisp.
On the rappel my 60 meter rope left us a few feet shy of the ground on the ramp...70 meter rope not needed.

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2011

To counter Doug's comment I felt this was much easier than Skyline or Ryecrisp. The route is not nearly as sustain as either of those. I would recommend this to climbers looking for a good first 5.8 crack in the city

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Regarding the twin cracks up top. When there isn't a good hand jam, then there is always a good face-hold. When there isn't a good face hold, there is always a good hand-jam. Good route for sure.

By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Aug 1, 2013

Stellar. The twin cracks section is full value.