Carol's Crack 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Steinfell Club '64 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on May 21, 2005 |
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Leading Carol's double cracks-great stuff!
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Description AKA: Double Cracks. This is on the left side of the west face. It is in deep shade early morning. It is easy to identify by the closely spaced double cracks that start on top of the large leftward rising ramp. Scramble up the ramp any way you choose, then jam the fun crack for 50 feet or so until it lowers angle. No anchor at the top.
To rap, scramble to your right (when facing the cliff) to an anchor. A one rope rap with a 60m touches down near the ground, where a short scramble off is easy.
The climbing on this is really good, but the upper crack is so short that it is over too quickly!
Protection This is a hand crack - mainly hand sized pieces, but bring a variety of pieces.
BETA PHOTO: Climber on the right is on Adolescent Humanoid, on...
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BETA PHOTO: The yellow arrow indicates Carol's "double cracks"...
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Dean Allison enjoying the climb and day
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| Comments on Carol's Crack |
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2005
| This is commonly called carol's crack. Great route..eats up stoppers...Not to be confused with the Route "double Cracks 10a" on the backside of the king on his throne. |
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.8+
| Great route, with some great exposure. Wider gear on the crack getting to the top of the pedestal. Whereas, the double "ski track" cracks, can be sewn up with whatever you bring. I used mainly smaller stuff, 2 inches or less. You will need to set up your own anchor, and their is a set of chains to rap off of to climbers right. You will need a 70 meter, and that barely reaches. |
By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Fort Collins, CO
Feb 7, 2007
| All you should need is a 60m rope to rap off - the down climb is nothing intense. |
By Brian B Ballard
From: Boulder, CO
May 18, 2009
| Great fun did the direct start rather than the ramp, it wasn't too strenuous if you like stemming. |
By ted coxworth
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.8+
| Direct start adds to this climb. Don't cheat yourself! |
By Mattym
Aug 23, 2009
| Nice steep cracks, definitely "full value" for the grade. Takes good gear. |
By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Jul 19, 2011
| Really fun stuff. As a 5.8 this felt much harder than Skyline or Rye Crisp.
On the rappel my 60 meter rope left us a few feet shy of the ground on the ramp...70 meter rope not needed. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2011
| To counter Doug's comment I felt this was much easier than Skyline or Ryecrisp. The route is not nearly as sustain as either of those. I would recommend this to climbers looking for a good first 5.8 crack in the city |
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