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Smiling Albert Ramirez passing the roof.
This is a fairly nice route, with some offwidth and an overhang.
In the center of the Wailing Sax Wall, there are two bolted face routes: "In A Silent Way" and "Maiden Voyage." Just to the right of these climbs is a crack that runs from bottom to top. It has some obvious wide sections.
standard rack, with a little offwidth gear
Agina Sedler at the start.
Agina Sedler at the roof.
Agina Sedler belayed by Nathan Fitzhugh on a beaut...
|By Russ Walling|
Dec 31, 2012
Not bad and takes regular gear in the 2" range. The wide stuff is easily climbed around using the many face holds and good edges. After turning the fake roof, I went out left and clipped the last two bolts on Maiden Voyage and finished up at those rap anchors. Pretty nice pitch done this way and you don't have to haul gear to set up your own anchor, or grovel up the rest of the low angle wide stuff. The upper part of Maiden Voyage is plenty easy and not run out. No worries, and it goes at maybe 5.7 or so.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 31, 2012
Nice route, fun pulling the little roof. Sticking to the route (unlike the hybrid method mentioned above) the crack gets wider after the roof, taking 4"+ gear. The section itself climbs mostly outside of the crack with many features. Belay at the top, gear anchor with larger pieces. Decent using one of the various bolted anchors (if available) or scrambling down a gully to the climbers right to the base.