Seen from the NW, the eye is immediately drawn to a striking near vertical crack system piercing the upper half of the face. Lower 5th class climbing at the UIAA Gr. III level (5.4/5.5)reaches an overhang/cave at the base of the fantastic dihedral and crack system. Climbing out from the cave and reaching the dihedral proper constitutes the crux at UIAA Gr. VIII- (5.11a/b), but aid may be used to overcome this obstacle to progress (A0,A1). The remaining climbing is still quite stout at UIAA Gr. VI, VI+; some additional aid is frequently used by many parties. This is still regarded as a serious route, and strong parties still require 7-9 hours on the route; not to be underestimated.
The climb is reached by means of climber's path from Rifugio Coldai or Rifugio Tissi. Downclimb the NE Route using the Haupt-Loempel chimney system; ultimately reaching the Tivan Weg which leads to Rifugio Coldai
Many pitons are in place, but a normal "Alpine" rack of stoppers, cams, and slings should be carried.
A closer view of the route