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Torre di Valgrande
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Carlesso-Menti Route T 

Carlesso-Menti Route 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1320', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rafele Carlesso & Mario Menti, 1936.
Season: Warm dry weather
Page Views: 144
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 3, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Carlesso-Menti Route sketch; many possib...

Description 

Seen from the NW, the eye is immediately drawn to a striking near vertical crack system piercing the upper half of the face. Lower 5th class climbing at the UIAA Gr. III level (5.4/5.5)reaches an overhang/cave at the base of the fantastic dihedral and crack system. Climbing out from the cave and reaching the dihedral proper constitutes the crux at UIAA Gr. VIII- (5.11a/b), but aid may be used to overcome this obstacle to progress (A0,A1). The remaining climbing is still quite stout at UIAA Gr. VI, VI+; some additional aid is frequently used by many parties. This is still regarded as a serious route, and strong parties still require 7-9 hours on the route; not to be underestimated.

Location 

The climb is reached by means of climber's path from Rifugio Coldai or Rifugio Tissi. Downclimb the NE Route using the Haupt-Loempel chimney system; ultimately reaching the Tivan Weg which leads to Rifugio Coldai

Protection 

Many pitons are in place, but a normal "Alpine" rack of stoppers, cams, and slings should be carried.


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