Caribbean Cruise 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Scheuerell and Jerry Anderson |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 6, 2010 |
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This easy pitch was originally part of an unfinished project. I drilled a 3/8" hole for, at the time, the 3rd or 4th protection bolt. When I tried to hammer the bolt into the hole it would only go in part way. Hammering it further only caused the bolt to deform. I tightened the bolt down replaced my drill bit and continued the climb. After installing the next bolt I lowered down to the last and added another bolt several inches away with the intent of chopping the poor bolt later, when I had my patch kit. I lowered off the climb to continue it on another day. When I returned to the climb I found someone had connected the two bolts with webbing for an anchor. Later I heard that several people had enjoyed this fun easy bolted pitch. I decided to chop and patch the poor bolt and add another good bolt and call it a pitch. I also added a couple of protection bolts making it a less runout climb, a little better for a 5.7 leader. The second pitch is unfinished.
Location Just up and left of Costa Rica is a small tree at the base of a left facing corner. From the base of the tree climb on top of the corner. Easy climbing leads to the high first bolt. Follow the very edge of the corner, pulling of off it now and then past a few more bolts to a chain anchor.
Protection 4 or 5 bolts to a chain anchor.
| Comments on Caribbean Cruise |
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By Jeff Scheuerell Feb 12, 2012
| There is an unfinished second pitch to this route. 5.10 slabbing leads to a cool thin crack/seam that opens up in a few spots for the fingers and for gear. A bit higher the seam stops cooperating and the pro ends, my high point on lead. Even higher the seam disappears altogether and the face is blank. There is a 2 bolt belay above. On tr this pitch is 11a/b. |
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